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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Srnčí hrot
In the South wall over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Srnčí hrot
On the North or South side through the chimney between the tower and the East lower tower… Rock Climbing
5+
Staronová věž
From the SW, by the corner crack into the hole (bolt on the left). From the bolt directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Staronová věž
To the right of the Dášenka route by a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Staronová věž
By a crack (with slings) to the left of the large boulder in the North wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Staronová věž
In the South wall through the chimney and left to the ledge to the bolt, then up a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Staronová věž
In the right part of the South wall up the wall to the 1st bolt, then up the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Staronová věž
In the South wall to the right of the chimney, up the overhanging wall over 2 bolts to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Staronová věž
Start in the corner crack a few meters up and right to the 1st bolt, then straight up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Staronová věž
To the right in the North wall over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Tendr
Continuously up the crack to the anchor and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Tendr
Step across from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Tendr
In the gorge between Lokomotiva and Tender from the N along the ribs upwards and right by… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Tendr
In the left part of the massif, step across to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Tendr
Up an indistinct corner in the recess and later by crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Střekovský masiv
From the 3rd anchor directly to the 4th anchor of the route "Dramatic Study". (c) ČéHáEs Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Tendr
From the gorge left of the edge by crack to half the height of the tower and right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Tendr
Up the SW wall to the anchor, further into the crack and to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Bílá stěna (Plachta)
Up the middle of the wall to the anchor and by crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Bílá stěna (Plachta)
To the right of the route "Heuréka" up the wall over a ring and three bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Bílá stěna (Plachta)
From the left edge behind the large rib by crack and right to the anchor, further right… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Bílá stěna (Plachta)
In the left part of the wall via a small pillar/corner to the 1st anchor. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Střekovský masiv
Freely onto the fore-rock to the 1st anchor, up the wall to the 2nd anchor and by fissure… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8+/9-
Bílá stěna (Plachta)
In the right part of the wall via a distinct slab over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Bílá stěna (Plachta)
In the right part of the massif via the buttress to K and further up the wall diagonally… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Bílá stěna (Plachta)
Left of the 'Do or Die' route up the wall via the hourglass (formation) to BH and then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
2+
Severní Herkulův sloup
From the South Hercules Pillar descend to the pillar, cross over and up the steps to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Severní Herkulův sloup
Up the chimney to the ledge (K and to the top). Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Severní Herkulův sloup
From the edge of the South Hercules Pillar traverse/jump to the ledge (left of the abseil… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Severní Herkulův sloup
Along the SW edge to the top. Rock Climbing

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