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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Teplická věž
Completely to the right in the E face to the 1st K, from it upwards right to the 2nd K of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7+/8-
Teplická věž
Start in the left part of the E face via a crack to its end (1st K), via the face upwards… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Teplická věž
Via the N face over the 1st K to K of the route 'Northern Crack'. Further upwards to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Teplická věž
Right in the N face via a hole to K. From there directly and slightly right over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Teplická věž
In the left part of the W face via the rib to its end (like the Northwest route) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Medvědí věž
About 5m right of the route 'Bear's Step' with a long step to the ledge and easily to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Medvědí věž
In the upper face via a short middle chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Medvědí věž
From the center of the massif, a traverse to the ledge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Medvědí věž
In the left part of the E face, higher via a small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Teplická věž
Via the chimney between Bear Tower and Teplická Tower around K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Hříšník
Via the left wet corner into an even wetter hole, from there onto a mossy ledge, further… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Danger
Přeskok
Teplická věž
By traversing from Bear Tower to the summit of Teplická. Rock Climbing
2+
Medvědí věž
Via the right chimney in the upper face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Medvědí věž
Via a wide crack, higher up via a double crack further up. Rock Climbing
5
Medvědí věž
Via a crack through the middle of the E face to K and further up. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Medvědí věž
Jump from Teplice Tower. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Medvědí věž
In the E face via chimney and higher via crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Medvědí věž
Via a fine crack along the NE edge upwards and left to K, then via a crack and the edge… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Medvědí věž
Through the middle of the smooth wall between the routes 'Smokers' Cracks' and 'Gully… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Medvědí věž
Via a crack, later a notch, further up. Rock Climbing
3
Medvědí věž
Transfer from Teplice Tower to the wall and further up. Rock Climbing
5
Medvědí věž
To the left of the deep W corner, up the wall along the rounded edge over an overgrown… Rock Climbing
4-
Medvědí věž
In the right part of the S face, via the corner under the overhang and right to K, then… Rock Climbing
4-
Medvědí věž
To the left of the West Chimney route, via the crack of the middle pillar into the… Rock Climbing
2+
Medvědí věž
From a deep corner in the W face via the left corner further up. Rock Climbing
4+
Medvědí věž
From W along the rounded edge up a small wall to a small balcony and right via the corner… Rock Climbing
3
Medvědí věž
To the right in the SW face, via the corner, higher up via the chimney further up. Rock Climbing
5+
Medvědí věž
Along the edge of the pillar to the balcony and to K, then up the wall further up. Rock Climbing
3
Medvědí věž
In the W face in a deep corner via the right chimney further up. Rock Climbing
5+
Medvědí věž
Up the wall above the staircase to a curved crack and along it to K, then right along the… Rock Climbing

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