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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Slon - severní věž
To the right of the Saxon Route up under the overhang and right along the rib to K,… Rock Climbing
4+
Slon - severní věž
Through the chimney to K, over the overhang and through the crack n. v. (Normal Way). Rock Climbing
5
Slon - severní věž
On the N side of the tower, up the wall to the right around the edge into a chimney,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Slon - severní věž
In the left part of the N wall up over the hole to K, from there traverse right into the… Rock Climbing
6-
Slon - severní věž
Through the notch in the NW wall around 2 K n. v. (Normal Way). Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Slon - severní věž
From 1. K of the Sandokan route directly over 2. K n. v. (Normal Way). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7-/7
Slon - jižní věž
Left of the 'Nightingale's Overhang' route, via the wall over 1 K (bolt/ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Slon - severní věž
From the South, via a brittle/loose wall diagonally left upwards into a groove and to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Slon - jižní věž
From the Elephant Pillar to the South Tower and by jumping to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Slon - severní věž
From the tourist path, via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Slon - severní věž
On the West side, via the wall into a hole (passage from the NW). Over the overhang to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Slon - severní věž
Through the middle of the wall into the crack and fissure to 1. K, right to the edge and… Rock Climbing
6-
Sloní sloup
Via the West face over overhangs (K - bolts/rings) to the top. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Sloní sloup
Left of the North route, over 3 K (bolts/rings) to the top. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Sloní sloup
Left of the 'Memories of the Past' route, over the overhang and directly over 2 K (bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Slon - jižní věž
From the tourist path on the East side, via the left chimney and partially along the… Rock Climbing
6-
Slon - jižní věž
Via the West face to K (bolt/ring), then further via a crack and arête to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Slon - jižní věž
Via the chimney on the Southwest side 3 m upwards, then left into a recess and through… Rock Climbing
4+
Sloní sloup
On the South side, in the gorge between the towers, into a niche. Over the overhang into… Rock Climbing
3
Sloní sloup
From the ledge, right via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Sloní sloup
In the East face, up a wide gully to a ledge, from there traverse left and continue up… Rock Climbing
3
Sloní sloup
Via the chimney between the Fortress and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Sloní sloup
In the right part of the West face, over the overhang (K - bolt/ring) and via a recess to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8/8+
Tlouštík
Left on the North face over an overhang to the 1st bolt, slightly right into the rib to… Rock Climbing
6-
Tlouštík
On the East face right of the Old Route over 'salted' pockets to the 1st bolt. Further… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Tlouštík
Via a crack from the West under the overhang. Up the overhanging wall around the bolt… Rock Climbing Danger
6+/7-
Tlouštík
Through the center of the overhanging North face to the 1st bolt, from there diagonally … Rock Climbing
6-
Tlouštík
Through the left part of the valley wall diagonally upwards into its center and directly… Rock Climbing Danger
4+
Tlouštík
Descending in the SW direction from Pevnost and rappelling onto the S edge of Tlouštík to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna přátelství
Approach left of the "West Face" along a small crack over a double bolt to a ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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