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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Rozpůlená skála
To the right in the valley wall to the end of the crack, right to the rib and briefly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay +1
5+
Sedan mety
Briefly via a sloping path and up the wall left to K. Up into the gully, briefly left and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Rozpůlená skála
Via an overhanging start, then cracks and higher up a corner further up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Rozpůlená skála
In the left part of the valley wall via cracks over several holes to a pillar. Traverse… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Rozpůlená skála
To the left in the SW wall along the edge to a step to the 1st K. Left along the edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Studená stěna
Through the left part of the wall over K and via a crack to a very large shelf. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Rozpůlená skála
From the block below the wall, step over to the edge and up it further up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Rozpůlená skála
Along the S edge to the rib, then up the wall and higher up via a small chimney further… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Rozpůlená skála
From W from the slope via a chimney over a wedged block further up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Studená stěna
To the right in the valley wall to the left edge of the ledge. Up the wall into the gully… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Ústecká kobliha
From a large platform in the valley wall via a crack to K. Up the wall to the right to a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Ústecká kobliha
Through the center of the wall via a crack to the second ledge. Up the wall diagonally… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Ústecká kobliha
Via a crack in the center of the SE wall further up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Studená stěna
Along the right edge, step over to the edge to the 1st K. Over the ledge and step to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Studená stěna
To the right in the S wall around two holes and up the rib to a shelf. Via a crack to K.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Hadí věž
Up the corner crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Ústecká kobliha
Up the edge along the cracks. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Hadí věž
In the narrow E wall by a crack to the ring. Up the crack and the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Ústecká kobliha
From the left edge of the large platform up the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Ústecká kobliha
Left in the wall diagonally right into the break. Up the crack and the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Hadí věž
Up the narrow NE wall along the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Hadí věž
Left in the E wall to the balcony. Up the overhanging crack over the ring. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Hadí věž
Along the indistinct edge, small blocks and higher up the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Hadí věž
Through the middle of the valley's S wall by a crack and a small block to the flake to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Hadí věž
Up the diagonal crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Hadí věž
Through the left part of the wall over ledges to the saddle and up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Kóta 61
In the left part of the S wall by a double crack in a prominent indentation and further… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Kóta 61
Up the wall briefly to the ring. Via the pillar and the wall into the black hole. Left up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Kóta 61
Left of the S pillar via the indentation and cracks up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Kóta 61
Up the wall of the overhanging small pillar to the 1st ring. Higher up the already slabby… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay

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