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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Rozmanitá stěna
To the left into the hole and over 2 bolts to the ledge, traverse right into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
Rozmanitá stěna
Via the SW corner approximately in the middle of the wall to the top. The summit book is… Rock Climbing
5
Rozmanitá stěna
Up the wall into a crack, then up it to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Rozmanitá stěna
To the left in the wall via a pillar (K) and higher up via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Rozmanitá stěna
To the right in the S wall via a falcon's notch and the wall to K. Up the wall and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Rozmanitá stěna
In the right part of the wall near the SE edge up to below the summit overhang to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Rozmanitá stěna
Via the overhanging wall into the slanted gully of the 'Through the Window' route, up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Rozmanitá stěna
Up the center of the wall briefly to the left into a crack, through it into a hole. Via a… Rock Climbing
5+
Rozmanitá stěna
From the 'Magic Wall' route via a slanted gully to the left under the overhang. Via a… Rock Climbing
4+
Kančí zub
To the ledge to K and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kančí zub
Via a hand crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kančí zub
On the step to K. Via a corner and a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Proti roh Mikulášské stěny
To the left of the SW corner via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Proti roh Mikulášské stěny
The right part of the wall with cracks near the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Proti roh Mikulášské stěny
Along the edge via K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Proti roh Mikulášské stěny
From the raised ledge under the South wall to the right and up the wall of a narrow… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Proti roh Mikulášské stěny
In the left part of the S wall via a rib to the right to K. Left into a crack and up it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Proti roh Mikulášské stěny
From the ledge via a crack and further via a corner to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Mikulášská stěna
Start left from the gully from a large platform up the wall diagonally right to a step.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Mikulášská stěna
By a crack in the right part of the valley South face to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Mikulášská stěna
To the right in the valley South face by a small pillar up to a large platform, further… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Mikulášská stěna
Left in the South face by small cracks to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Mikulášská stěna
Through the center of the valley South face into a hole to the 1st K. Up the wall to a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Mikulášská stěna
Left of the route 'Berta's Crack' over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Mikulášská stěna
In the right part of the East face by a wider crack, later narrower to a balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
4+
Mikulášská stěna
Left of the edge by a nice hand crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Vertical wall
4-
Mikulášská stěna
In the middle of the East face along cracks and by a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Mikulášská stěna
From the route 'Cracks' traverse left on the wall to the 1st K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Bielefeldská stěna
In the left part of the valley wall from the SW corner diagonally right to the edge. Up… Rock Climbing
6-
Mikulášská stěna
By the SE edge over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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