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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Doga
In the right part of the N wall to the horizontal notch, through it left to the corner… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Doga
To the right of the "Valley Route" up the wall over 2 K to the pillar, further along the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Doga
Through the chimney from the valley to the fore-rock and overhanging edge via bh. n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Doga
Start via the North Face route into the notch, along a small crack along the right edge… Rock Climbing
5+
Doga
In the W wall, via the right crack n.v. Rock Climbing
4-
Doga
From the saddle along the North edge to a ledge, traverse left to the edge to a notch.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Doga
In the V wall along the edge to the 1st K, further directly upwards and to the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Doga
By the SE wall and via a small chimney to the ring, up the wall above the ring to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4-
Pouzdro
By a crack to the left of the West chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Doga
By a narrow crack in the V wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pouzdro
By the West chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Pouzdro
To the right in the valley wall by a crack to a balcony. To the left by a delicate crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Pouzdro
Through the middle of the V wall by a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Pouzdro
In the right part of the valley wall over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Pouzdro
Start the same as the "Super Crack" route and by a diagonal crack to the left to a ledge.… Rock Climbing
5+
Pouzdro
To the left of the start of the "Valley Route" over K to a ledge into this route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Pouzdro
In the left part of the valley wall by a crack, at the point where it turns left,… Rock Climbing
4+
Pouzdro
To the left in the valley wall via a corner and further by a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Pouzdro
In the V wall to the left of the corner by a crack along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Tabule
To the left in the valley wall via a corner to the left, further to the right by a crack… Rock Climbing
6
Tabule
Through the middle of the valley wall by a crack (K) to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Tabule
To the right in the V wall via a corner under an overhang, to the left by a crack under… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Tabule
In the valley wall along the blunt edge to the ring. Above it slightly from the left over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-/8
Tabule
Route variant: "Small Joy" From the ring of the "Small Joy" route from the right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Libkovská skála
Start to the left of the outcrop, via a small chimney and further along the edge (bh) n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
0
Libkovská skála
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Tabule
In the V wall by hand crack to a ledge and to the right over an overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Libkovská skála
Start to the right of the fallen boulder up the wall over bh to the next bh. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Libkovská skála
Start in the rightmost part of the valley wall along the blunt edge (bh) n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kuře
Through the overhanging NW edge n. v. Rock Climbing

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