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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Kuře
Through the center of the West wall and by a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Lomový masív.
Start from the left edge of the terrace over steps to the shelf to the 1st bh. further to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
3
Kuře
Through the overhanging NW edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Kuře
By a crack in the NE edge to a step and left by the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Kuře
To the right in the West wall right to a step and along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Kuře
Through the center of the valley wall into the notch, from there up the overhanging wall… Rock Climbing
4-
Dědova vyhlídka
To the left of the SW edge along the crack diagonally right to the ledge, left along the… Rock Climbing
4-
Dědova vyhlídka
Through the center of the West face by cracks to the ledge and up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Dědova vyhlídka
To the left in the NW wall by a crack, left to the edge to K. By the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Dědova vyhlídka
To the right of the SW edge to K and diagonally left into the route Difficult Choice. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Dědova vyhlídka
To the right of the Old route by a hand crack to the end. Right diagonally by a crack n.… Rock Climbing
4-
Dědova vyhlídka
Start left of the Valley route by a crack, then up the wall to K. Along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Dědova vyhlídka
To the right of the route "Jonathan's Choice" by wall and arête to K, from there directly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Dědova vyhlídka
m right of the SW edge by fine overhanging cracks (2 K) n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Dědova vyhlídka
Via the route "Error invalid" into the hole to the sling. To the left into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Dědova vyhlídka
To the left of the SW edge by wall to the 1st K. Through the crack right to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Dědova vyhlídka
From the SE edge, traverse diagonally left to a large shelf. Rock Climbing
3
Dědova vyhlídka
Through the overhanging crack directly upwards to a large shelf. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Dědova vyhlídka
In the middle of the valley wall by the route "2nd variant" to the shelf and directly to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2
Dědova vyhlídka
Through the chimney in the East wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Dědova vyhlídka
To the right of the route, the Chimney route by a narrow wall and crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Dědova vyhlídka
On the upper side via a slightly overhanging crack below the rappel point to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Dědova vyhlídka
To the right of the NE edge via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Dědova vyhlídka
By the SE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Dědova vyhlídka
To the right in the South face by a crack into a hole under the overhang (sling). Through… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Babiččina vyhlídka
Through the chimney in the middle of the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Babiččina vyhlídka
Through a narrow pillar in the left part of the wall over the K (fixed anchor) into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Dědova vyhlídka
In the upper wall via a corner to the left to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Babiččina vyhlídka
Through a broken, partially overhanging crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Babiččina vyhlídka
To the right of the route "Pillar" directly up the wall to the BH (bolt hanger/piton) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1

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