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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
On the left in the E wall along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
On the right in the S wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
In the right part of the SW wall, via an overhanging dihedral to the K and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
To the right of the SE chimney, over two holes to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
From the SE chimney, left to the edge and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Eliščina skála - severní vrchol
From the W chimney to a large platform and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
From the upper NE side via steps to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Eliščina skála - severní vrchol
To the left of the chimney, up the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Eliščina skála - severní vrchol
In the NW wall, over an overhang and up the wall via 2 K's to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Eliščina skála - severní vrchol
Through the center of the SW wall via a crack to a hole at the 1st K. Diagonally left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Eliščina skála - severní vrchol
On the left in the SW wall, via a crack to the balcony and over the K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Eliščina skála - severní vrchol
Via the route "God knows why" to the balcony. To the right along the ledge to K, directly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
Přeskok
Rezavé věžky - horní věž
Descent from the massif, across the drop onto the ledge and up the wall. Rock Climbing
3
Rezavé věžky - spodní věž
By a small wall into the gully and up it. Rock Climbing
4+
Rezavé věžky - spodní věž
Up the wall to the K and via the gully to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Rezavé věžky - spodní věž
Up the chimney between the towers and right along the smooth edge upwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Rezavé věžky - spodní věž
Along the SW edge into the hole (bolt). Along the edge upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Rezavé věžky - spodní věž
On the left in the N wall, over an overhang into the gully and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Rezavé věžky - horní věž
From the boulder under the SE edge over the overhang and up the wall. Rock Climbing
2+
Rezavé věžky - horní věž
By a small wall and up the chimney. Rock Climbing
5+
Rezavý masiv
From the 1st bolt of the route "Stone City" through the hollow and left up the sloping… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4-
Rezavé věžky - horní věž
Through the center of the South face along the rib into the hole, from there diagonally… Rock Climbing
2+
Rezavé věžky - horní věž
Up the chimney and higher via steps upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Rezavé věžky - horní věž
Along the edge over the bolt onto the ledge and left along the edge upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Rezavý masiv
Through a wide crack in the center of the valley wall to the ledge, by a broken wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Rezavý masiv
All the way to the right of the South valley wall over the starting flake slightly right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
3
Rezavý masiv
Right in the South valley wall via a chimney crack to the ledge, right into a broken… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Rezavý masiv
Left up the valley wall over a smaller hole to the ledge, into the hollow to the 1st bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Rezavý masiv
Via a chimney crack to the ledge, through a broken hollow left into the corner slab and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Rezavý masiv
Wall left of the route "South Edge" to the ledge to the bolt and up the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1

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