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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Šabota
Up the narrow SE wall (in the right half of the tower) along the edge over K to a large… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6+/7-
Šabota
From the ring of the "Valley Route" directly over the overhang and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Šabota
Center of the right part of the wall below the overhang to K. Via an open crack and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Šabota
From the ring of the "Lost and Found" route, diagonally left over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Lesní panna
Left of the S edge, via a crack to the ledge and over the step to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Lesní panna
Through the middle of the valley wall and slightly from the left to BH, from there… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Lesní panna
In the left part of the valley wall diagonally left to the edge, then over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Lesní panna
Along the right edge of the north face of the separate pillar to its summit, then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lesní panna
By the corner of the right part of the valley wall to the crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Točitá věž
To the left from the valley wall onto the ledge and by a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Lesní panna
From the E wall to the left onto the SE edge and by it onto the small platform. To the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Lesní panna
From the N by a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Točitá věž
By the blunt S edge and by the crack receding to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Točitá věž
By the East edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Točitá věž
By the right part of the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Točitá věž
In the left part of the upper/plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sukovice
From the chimney diagonally right towards the bolt, directly to a large ledge and over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Sukovice
Right to the wall to the ledge to the bolt. Along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
2
Sukovice
Up the chimney in the left part of the massif to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Sukovice
In the right part of the massif, along the edge beside the crack to a grassy ledge, from… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Nárožní stěna
Up the chimney in the W wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Nárožní stěna
Up the middle of the W wall to the balcony and right by an open crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Nárožní stěna
Left in the N wall by a short crack and up the wall over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Nárožní stěna
Left in the W wall by a short wide crack to the balcony. Up the narrow wall along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Nárožní stěna
In the right part of the plateau North wall by a small crack over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+/7-
Nárožní stěna
Up the middle of the pillar over 2 bolts to the ledge. From there right to the 2nd bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Nárožní stěna
Through the middle of the valley wall over 2 K (markers/points) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Nárožní stěna
Via the SE edge to a ledge, from the ledge right to the edge via a crack under the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Nárožní stěna
To the right of the SE edge via a crack to a small balcony and then right via a widening… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7-/7
Nárožní stěna
From the 2nd bolt directly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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