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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Nárožní stěna
By a hollow in the SW edge to the 1st bolt. By a crack to the ledge. Up the wall over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Nárožní stěna
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Dívčí věž
Through the middle of the valley wall over K (marker/point) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Dívčí věž
Via the right upper/plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
3
Nárožní stěna
Through the hand crack to the left of the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Dívčí věž
Between the routes "Valley Route" and "Valley Wall" directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
U posedu
In the central wall, about 1m from the left edge via the small pillar/tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Dívčí věž
Through the crack in the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dívčí věž
2m right of the NE edge via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
U posedu
Through the middle of the wall at the small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dívčí věž
Via the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
U posedu
From the rock on the massif, by jumping onto the tower. Rock Climbing
2+
Dívčí věž
From the valley side of the SE edge to the overhang and left to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Ukrytá věž
In the left part of the central wall, upwards and slightly right to the small tree. Rock Climbing
?
Ukrytá věž
From the "descent" route, about 1m right of the edge at the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
U posedu
By the outermost chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
U posedu
Right below the overhang, briefly to the overhang, step into it and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
U posedu
Through the middle of the central wall at the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
U posedu
Through the middle of the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
U posedu
About 1.5m right of the pillar/tower over the ledges to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
U posedu
To the right of the path, it is necessary to go 1m onto a horizontal ledge and traverse… Rock Climbing
5
Ukrytá věž
From the right side of the central wall, immediately at the beginning via an overhang… Rock Climbing
3
Housličky
Up the SE structured edge over a block to the top (n.t. - na terasu, to the terrace or na… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ukrytá věž
From the NE, directly over the largest overhang.. Rock Climbing
?
Ukrytá věž
Up the right plateau edge to the top (n.v. - na vrchol, to the top). Rock Climbing
5
Ukrytá věž
In the central wall at the beginning of the overhang, upwards, step right and to the… Rock Climbing
3
Ukrytá věž
At the rock attachment, straight to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Ukrytá věž
Center of the plateau route, start from the rock and briefly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Housličky
Up the blunt (eastern) edge over a bolt to a ledge, through an open hollow to the top (n… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Housličky
Up the overhanging hawk-like rib over a horizontal crack to a bolt. Up the small wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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