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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Asie
Start all the way to the left at the edge of the massif. By the wall over ledges into a… Rock Climbing
5
Asie
Start in the left part of the western section of the massif by the wall over ledges to… Rock Climbing
3
Asie
From the grassy terrace by the right double crack in the western wall in the western… Rock Climbing
3
Asie
From the grassy terrace by the middle crack in the western wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Asie
From the terrace through a chimney over a wedged boulder to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Asie
By the wall onto a ledge broken by a crack to the bolt. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Asie
By the small pillar onto a boulder and over a small overhang to the 1st bolt, further… Rock Climbing
6-
Asie
Start under a prominent edge. Over steps under the overhang to the 1st bolt and by the… Rock Climbing
6-
Asie
Left of "Ottomans" along the fore-rock to a small ledge, from there directly up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Asie
In the left part of the western sector of the massif, by the wall onto a ledge. Higher up… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Asie
To the right of the route "Ottomans are marching" by the rib onto a boulder under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
5+
Asie
Start in the corner left of the route "Vandamme's Mistake" over a rib to the 1st bolt, by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Asie
From the right onto the fore-rock and by the corner (slings) to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Asie
Start by a sharp rib through a hole to the 1st bolt, by the wall (rounded rib) to a ledge… Rock Climbing
5
Asie
Left of the route "Berry Paradise" by a broken rib to a platform of stacked stones. Over… Rock Climbing
4-
Asie
In the right part of the massif, by the wall onto the ledge and by the overhanging crack… Rock Climbing
5
Asie
All the way to the right in the eastern sector of the massif, up the center of the fore… Rock Climbing
4
Asie
In the right part of the massif, by the corner and crack to the terrace. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Asie
In the central part of the massif, by a broken and later narrowing crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Asie
Start by the rib into the wall and over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Asie
By the crack to the left of the large corner to the terrace. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Asie
Approximately 5 m to the left of "Mandarin" by a broken crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Asie
All the way to the right in the eastern sector, by the wall over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Čtyřzubec
ATTENTION: 2 bolts removed. Violation of PL rules. For others, see OVK record. Route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Čtyřzubec
10 m to the left of the route "Klouznění" (Slip) by wall to the 1st bolt and overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Rtg masiv
Left in the valley wall by a hollow and over an overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Čtyřzubec
From the start of the route KLOUZNĚNÍ (SLIP) via the overhanging edge over the 1st bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Čtyřzubec
To the right of the route “Marné tázání nebes” (Vain Questioning of the Heavens) by… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+/7-
Čtyřzubec
3m to the left of the route "Veřejná samota" (Public Solitude), directly along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Čtyřzubec
SE by a smooth corner over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing

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