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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

9/9+
Čtyřzubec
To the right of the route “Marné tázání nebes” (Vain Questioning of the Heavens) by… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+/7-
Čtyřzubec
3m to the left of the route "Veřejná samota" (Public Solitude), directly along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Čtyřzubec
SE by a smooth corner over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Čtyřzubec
South face/wall. Ascent by an overhang directly to the bolt, and further up the wall over… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Čtyřzubec
2nd pinnacle. At the beginning of the roof-like overhang, over it and diagonally left to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Čtyřzubec
From the 2nd bolt of the 'Hill of Fun' route, left by a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Čtyřzubec
2nd pinnacle. Up the middle of the wall by chimney and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Čtyřzubec
To the 1st bolt of the 'Hollow Head' route and further along the edge over the 2nd bolt… Rock Climbing
4+
Čtyřzubec
To the right in the articulated small wall between the 3rd and 4th pinnacle, right onto… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Čtyřzubec
On the third pinnacle, by a corner and up the wall over 2 bolts under the roof (slings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Čtyřzubec
Via the 'Cactus' route and further left by a crack to the bolt, then directly up the wall… Rock Climbing
2+
Čtyřzubec
Ascent from the North through the gully to the 1st pinnacle, then left over the… Rock Climbing
4-
Čtyřzubec
Via the 'Holiday Dancer' route and directly up an articulated notch to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Čtyřzubec
1st pinnacle. 3m left of the route 'Reins of Cobwebs', by an overhang at the edge along a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Čtyřzubec
2nd pinnacle. At the beginning of the roof-like overhang, over it and diagonally right up… Rock Climbing
5
Čtyřzubec
By the rib between the 1st and 2nd pinnacle, right onto the ledge (bolt) and left along… Rock Climbing
4+
Čtyřzubec
Left of the 'Holiday Dancer' route, by a wide crack, right of the wedged boulder to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Čtyřzubec
1st pinnacle. In the middle of the massif, left of the 'Cactus' route, up the wall over 2… Rock Climbing
4+
Čtyřzubec
On the 1st pinnacle, via the eastern kinked crack to the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Luciper
Completely to the left of the pillar, by a recess or wall to the platform, then by an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Luciper
Up the middle of the valley wall directly over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Luciper
Up the chimney between the pillar and the wall to the platform, then further up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Luciper
From the gully between the pillar and the massif, up the west face of the pillar (bolt)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Luciper
In the left part of the massif, by a crack (protection) into the gully, then onto the… Rock Climbing
4+
Luciper
Up the wall of the pillar to the platform, then to the small wall/slab towards the bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Luciper
Up the inner chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Luciper
Start via the inner chimney into the valley wall along the edge (triangular block) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Luciper
Up the eastern edge over BH. to the shelf and freely to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Luciper
In the right part of the massif up the wall to the shelf to the 1st bh. Over another… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Že slíže
Up the west face of the pillar to the shelf and the articulated wall of the beak to the… Rock Climbing

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