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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Že slíže
Up the west face of the pillar to the shelf and the articulated wall of the beak to the… Rock Climbing
5
Že slíže
Over the triangular flake to the 1st bh. (drilled into the bulge) onto the shelf, over… Rock Climbing
5
Že slíže
In the left part of the massif over the flake and the bh wall of the longitudinal crack … Rock Climbing
5
Že slíže
Through the breakthrough hollow to bh. Over the sharp rib and shelf to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Že slíže
Start from SE, via an articulated edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Že slíže
Through the central articulated corner and cracks to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Že slíže
Through the hollow in the right part of the valley wall to bh and by a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Kořalna
In the left part of the massif, from the ravine with an opposition move into the west… Rock Climbing
2+
Kořalna
Start from the ravine over piled boulders up to its end. Further into the articulated… Rock Climbing
3
Kořalna
Start in the middle of the wall via a crack to the slab and Hjüstnem to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Žrout
In the left part of the massif via the wall (bolt) and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Kořalna
Via a break corner to the adjacent pillar with a traverse to the bolt on the ledge. Via a… Rock Climbing
2+
Žrout
In the left part via a notch or wall along the edge of the notch, to a large ledge. Up… Rock Climbing
4-
Žrout
In the right part of the massif via distinctive ribs to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Kořalna
In the right part of the wall via a break corner to the adjacent pillar, wide crack to… Rock Climbing
5+
Paleta
Via a flake (bolt), over the belly (bulge) and an articulated rounded edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Paleta
Via a wide articulated chimney to the platform, right into the small wall and up it to… Rock Climbing
4-
Paleta
Via the rib to the platform and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Paleta
From SW via a broken crack to the splinter and left of the small pillar to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Paleta
Left in the valley wall via a small crack to a small balcony and right of the pillar to… Rock Climbing
4+
Paleta
In the left part of the massif from the gorge via the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Paleta
From the bolts of the "Chemical Colors" route directly to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Paleta
In the right part of the massif via a crack (bolt) and right to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Psí stěna
From the 2nd bolt of Kypova cesta (Kypa's route) via the overhang (!) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Psí stěna
Along the edge in the left part of the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Stolová věž
From the Zlobr massif, from the west, directly jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Stolová věž
Like "Květákův přepad" (Cauliflower Overhang), short descent and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Stolová věž
To the right of the route 'Ace of Hearts', up a distinct rib (2 bolts) and a wall (1 bolt…
5+
Psí stěna
In the right part of the valley wall, over a detached block (a rocking stone in the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Psí stěna
From the chimney in the right part of the massif, from the chimney over a block and the… Rock Climbing

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