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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Impérium
In the right part of the massif, up the wall (bolt) into a horizontal crack, traverse… Rock Climbing
4-
Impérium
In the right part of the massif, in the corner under the boulder to the crack and up it… Rock Climbing
5+
Impérium
In the right part of the massif, via the Výměnná hlava route (bolt) over an overhang,… Rock Climbing
2+
Turistické bueno
At the very right of the massif, from the gorge into the featured corner to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Turistické bueno
Start from SW into a small cave via a ceiling crack extending into the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Turistické bueno
From the ledge, up the left valley wall along the edge to the 1st bolt, then along the… Rock Climbing
4+
Turistické bueno
In the right part of the massif, via a short SE corner to a ledge, then up the edge steps… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Turistické bueno
From the ledge, up the center of the valley wall to the bolt, via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Franta
Via the left valley edge, new ascent. Rock Climbing
3
Franta
Via the right valley edge along round bulges, new ascent. Rock Climbing
3
Tři králové - Baltazar
Rock Climbing
4+
Tři králové - Baltazar
To the left on the valley wall to the balcony, along the right edge to the ledge to K and… Rock Climbing
3
Tři králové - Baltazar
In the left part of the N small wall along the edge upwards. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Tři králové - Baltazar
From the massif, a light jump/traverse to Baltazar. Rock Climbing
4-
Tři králové - Baltazar
Rock Climbing
3
Tři králové - Kašpar a Melichar
In the left part, up the small wall. Rock Climbing
4-
Tři králové - Kašpar a Melichar
Via a short edge or wall from the valley to the balcony and in the right part of the S… Rock Climbing
5+
Tři králové - Kašpar a Melichar
In the left part of the valley wall, up the steps to the balcony, along the white wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Tři králové - Kašpar a Melichar
In the left part of the valley wall, along the edge through the crack to K and up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Tři králové - Kašpar a Melichar
From the valley, up the SW face to the ledge, directly to K and further up. Rock Climbing
3
Tři králové - Baltazar
Up the SE face directly to the clock (belay/anchor point) and slightly right upwards. Rock Climbing
2+
Tři králové - Baltazar
Through the chimney and up the wall to Baltazar. Rock Climbing
3
Tři králové - Kašpar a Melichar
Along the right edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Gentleman
Rock Climbing
5+
Gentleman
In the left part of the NW wall, through a crack below a roof-like overhang. Over it into… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Gentleman
Through the middle of the right valley wall under the roof, over it to the ring (K) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Gentleman
Via the 'O.K.' route to the small balcony. Directly up the wall over the ring to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Gentleman
Along the arête directly to the small balcony and via the 'O.K.' route to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Gentleman
Through the left part of the SW wall, left onto the arête to a small balcony. Along the… Rock Climbing
4-
Gentleman
Over a small overhang through a small chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing

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