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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Gentleman
Over a small overhang through a small chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Gentleman
Through the left part of the SW wall, left onto the arête to a small balcony. Along the… Rock Climbing
4+
Gentleman
Up the small wall and through a crack below the summit block and with a mantle/pull-up to… Rock Climbing
5
Herkulova pěst
Left SW by a smooth small wall and up. Rock Climbing Danger
5+
Herkulova pěst
Through the middle of the SW wall by a crack and a wall and up. Rock Climbing
4-
Herkulova pěst
In the left part of the valley wall by a corner crack and up. Rock Climbing
3
Herkulova pěst
In the right part of the SW wall by a narrow pillar and up. Rock Climbing
5
Herkulova pěst
In the SW wall by the right overhanging crack and up. Rock Climbing
3
Domeček
All the way to the right on the south wall, by a featured wall to an indistinct crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Domeček
Along the rounded N edge, via cracks and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Domeček
In the middle of the N wall by a crack and up. Rock Climbing
4+
Domeček
Through the center of the NW face to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Domeček
Ascent via the Fallen Stone route, diagonally running ramp to the right (bolt hanger) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Domeček
Ascent along the rounded SW edge (oblique crack) to the 1st bolt hanger, up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Domeček
To the left in the S face (left of the Fallen Stone route) to the bolt hanger via a rib… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Domeček
In the middle of the S face from the right into a crack, through it and a corner to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Domeček
Via the Fallen Stone route, further over an overhang (bolt hanger) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Domeček
Through the right part of the NW face, up the wall and via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Domeček
Up the wall and via a crack in the middle of the SW face to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Poslední stěna (Samotář)
Along the left edge to the balcony of the Fly Buzz route. Rock Climbing
4-
Poslední stěna (Samotář)
Left via a short S edge to the top of the block and over another block to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Poslední stěna (Samotář)
In the center of the SE wall directly over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Poslední stěna (Samotář)
Through the center of several blocks to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Poslední stěna (Samotář)
Left at the SW wall via a corner to the balcony and a delicate rib to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Poslední stěna (Samotář)
In the left part of the valley wall via a corner to the balcony and left up the wall to… Rock Climbing
2+
Poslední stěna (Samotář)
In the right part of the SE wall via a crack and the right corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Poslední stěna (Samotář)
In the right part of the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Lacerta viridis
By opposition via a ring into the wall, then to the edge and over the 2nd ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Lacerta viridis
Left in the valley wall via the chimney between the tower and the massif, higher up via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lacerta viridis
Start via the "Valley Chimney" route. After 3m diagonally right (4x hours) to the summit… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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