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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-/8
Ventolin
Directly over the overhang and up the arête over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Srbský kámen
Up the corner in the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Ventolin
Through the recess directly over BH into the chimney (hourglass) and up it to the top. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Moře podstaty
To the left of "Customary Agreement", up the gully and an overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ventolin
Up the slanting crack over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Rugbyball
Up the valley W chimney to the balcony, over the overhang and up the rounded SW arête to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Rugbyball
From the upper side, with significant aid (or building holds), and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Rugbyball
Without aid (or building holds), up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Lesní divadlo
To the right of the route "Without a Hint", to the right up the disappearing rib and… Rock Climbing
2+
Lesní divadlo
From the boulder between the tower and the massif, via a stemming/chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Lesní divadlo
Through the middle of the plateau face directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Strážce divadla
In the valley, up a narrow wall over an overhang directly to the BH of the "World Theater… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Časosběr
To the left of "God with us" along ledges and an overhang into a recess and through it to… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Časosběr
Opposite the plateau face of the tower "Trojhran" (Triangle). Through the middle of the… Rock Climbing
4+
Athabaska
To the left of the route "Old Woman with a Basket" via a sloping crack to the pulpit,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Athabaska
Through the center of the valley wall with a pillar over a ring and 2 BH directly up the… Rock Climbing
6
Athabaska
From E via an overhanging corner to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Athabaska
In the center of the S wall, an overflow and diagonally left up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Athabaska
To the right in the valley W wall, via a prominent pillar over a ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Athabaska
NE valley left edge and to the right to the 1st ring, up the wall over the 2nd ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Česká díra
In the middle of the S wall with a pillar and to the left 1st BH, diagonally left up the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Modus
In the valley wall to the left of the corner crack, up the steps. Traverse right under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Česká díra
In the right part of the S wall, through a narrow chimney along the edge to the massif… Rock Climbing
6
Legie panen
From the terrace from the W, via an overhanging corner and the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Legie panen
Directly over the roof and via a shallow gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Legie panen
Via the overhanging plinth from the N and up the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Legie panen
In the left part of the N wall directly onto the sloping terrace and to the right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Legie panen
From the terrace from the N, diagonally right up the wall into the crack and via it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Kyjev
Via the corner crack in the SW wall and to the right (hourglass), from there directly up… Rock Climbing
5+
Legie panen
Middle of the S wall and directly over the overhang, higher up diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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