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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Legie panen
Via the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Pomeranč
Along the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Pomeranč
Via the S crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pomeranč
Directly up the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pomeranč
In the middle of the valley NW wall, along a jagged crack to an expansion and around a… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4+
Legie panen
In the right part of the S wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Bismarck
In the right part of the wall, directly over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Pomeranč
From the plateau side, along the ledge to the right to the E side, via the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bismarck
From the left up the wall to the NW edge and directly along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bismarck
Middle of the SW wall to the platform and via the "Old Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Bismarck
Left in the plateau wall via a chimney to the platform and over steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Bismarck
Along the small plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Bismarck
Middle of the wall, directly over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Bismarck
In the left part, via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Zikmund
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Zikmund
Along the valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kamzičí prdel
Approx. 3m right of the "December Way" directly up the face into the gully and along it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kamzičí prdel
From N along the face and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kamzičí prdel
Left of the beech tree directly up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kamzičí prdel
Middle of the plateau side to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Strážní kámen
Middle of the SW face over 3 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Kamzičí prdel
S gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Kamzičí prdel
Left in the upper part to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kamzičí prdel
Along the valley edge (initially overhanging) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Strážní kámen
Left of the NE edge via a crack over an overhang, diagonally right across the face and… Rock Climbing
4+
Strážní kámen
Left in the SW face, through the wall and crack over the overhang. Along the crack to its… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážní kámen
Right of the start of the "Old Way" along ledges to the right and through the middle of… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážní kámen
In the fall line of the left (SW) crack through the face and crack to the ledge, left of… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážní kámen
Along the E edge up the wall, crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Strážní kámen
Via the "Northwest route" and the right crack in the SW face to the summit. Rock Climbing

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