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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Ky-Ka-Ma
Left in the N wall up the small pedestal to the ring, higher up along the cracks and… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Ky-Ka-Ma
Approach left of the "Magnum" route up the wall over 6 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kamenická jehla
Through the diagonal crack in the S wall to the ring and up the wall along the ribs to… Rock Climbing
4+
Kamenická jehla
Left in the N wall up the corner and traverse right to the balcony on the W edge. Right… Rock Climbing
5
Kamenická jehla
Approach like route b), up the wall to the ring, then somewhat diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Kamenická jehla
From the ledge above the 2nd ring of the valley route, directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Kamenická jehla
Between the tower and the massif briefly through the chimney and up the SE wall over the… Rock Climbing
6-
Kamenická jehla
In the right part of the N wall over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kamenická jehla
In the valley wall from the right over the overhang and up the wall over 2 rings into the… Rock Climbing
6
Kamenická jehla
Up the wall along the right valley edge over 3 K (rings/bolts) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Kamenická jehla
Up the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Přísedící
Up the South face from the plateau to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Přísedící
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Strážce hřbitova
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Přísedící
From the gully in the N wall diagonally right into the center of the wall and to the BH … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Strážce hřbitova
From the ledge in the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Horní bílý ostroh
To the left of the NW edge, through the corner, the wall (pine), the small crack (large… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Strážce hřbitova
Slightly from the right and through the center of the N wall over the large hourglass to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Horní bílý ostroh
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Horní bílý ostroh
From the viewpoint, step across and follow the steps on the edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Müllerova věž
In the center of the E wall, ascend the wall, gully, and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Müllerova věž
Through the center of the plateau wall (below the rappel) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zelenáč
Through the center of the plateau face, higher up slightly left to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Müllerova věž
To the left in the E wall, ascend the small crack (sokolík) and the wall directly to the… Rock Climbing
3
Zelenáč
Along the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Zelenáč
To the left in the valley wall, obliquely right to the ring and then slightly left up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Zelenáč
From the Z wall, obliquely left to the NW edge and then to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zelenáč
Along the right plateau (E) edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Šťastlivec
Along the curved S edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Šťastlivec
From the East via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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