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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Rodiče
To the left of the start of the Old Path, via the SE ridge to a secondary pinnacle,… Rock Climbing
4-
Rodiče
To the left of the West Chimney, via a corner and crack to a rock window, then via an… Rock Climbing
3
Rodiče
From the W, via a chimney to the saddle between the peaks and then like the Old Path to… Rock Climbing
4+
Děti
To the left in the S wall, via the ridge to a ledge and then to the right via a crack to… Rock Climbing
5
Děti
About 4m from the start of the 'Šup do kouta' (Into the Corner) route, over an overhang… Rock Climbing
4+
Děti
Completely to the left in the S wall, via a prominent smooth corner to the Old Path… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Děti
Like the Translucent Crack to the ledge. Traverse right and then directly up the wall via… Rock Climbing
4+
Děti
To the right in the S wall, over the overhang and via a small corner to an overgrown… Rock Climbing
5+
Děti
Like the 'Šup do kouta' (Into the Corner) route to the overgrown balcony. To the left via… Rock Climbing
5+
Děti
To the left of the South Path, up the wall via a ring to an overgrown balcony and then… Rock Climbing
4-
Děti
Up the SW wall under the overhang and via a crack to the saddle between the Children and… Rock Climbing
2+
Děti
Via the Old Path to Grandmother, into the saddle between the Grandmother and Children… Rock Climbing
5
Děti
In the right part of the S wall, via a short crack to the Old Path balcony (ring).… Rock Climbing
3
Děti
To the right in the S wall, via a crack to an overgrown balcony and then directly up a… Rock Climbing
5+
Děti
In the center of the S wall, under the overhang and from the right up the wall via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Děti
To the left in the S wall, via a wide, structured indentation to a large overgrown… Rock Climbing
5+
Soutěskový drak
Overhang to the plateau edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
7-/7
Soutěskový drak
To the left of "Meeting in the Gorges", briefly along the edge and directly up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Soutěskový drak
In the middle of the S overhanging wall over 4 bolts (BH) and directly up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Soutěskový drak
To the right in the W wall via a crack and chimney to the plateau between the central and… Rock Climbing
6
Soutěskový drak
In the left part of the S wall, via a distinctive yellow corner to the platform below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Soutěskový drak
Via the "Old Route" to the central summit, left along the wall to the NE edge and along… Rock Climbing
2+
Závojnatka
Via the chimney in the valley wall, higher up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Závojnatka
To the left in the valley wall, via the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Závojnatka
Directly to the summit via the overhanging crack in the W wall. Rock Climbing
3
Soutěskový drak
From the W gorge upwards and up the steps along the wall to the right onto the ledge.… Rock Climbing
4-
Závojnatka
From the saddle, traverse left along the wall and up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Závojnatka
m left of the start of the Old Route, directly up the wall, higher over the overhang to… Rock Climbing
5
Trojnožka
Crack in the middle of the W wall to the ring. Directly up the wall over the 2nd ring to… Rock Climbing
4+
Trojnožka
From the balcony in the massif, descend 2m and then stem into the wall. Traverse right… Rock Climbing

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