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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Závojnatka
From the middle of the gorge, up the wall and shallow rib, over the balcony to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Závojnatka
From the massif, jump to the balcony and up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Trojnožka
To the left in the S wall, by stemming into the niche and diagonally left behind the edge… Rock Climbing
3
Trojnožka
Southern route into the niche, long traverse left behind the edge into the W wall and up… Rock Climbing
6-
Trojnožka
Old route 3m up and obliquely left along the wall to the ring under a large overhang.… Rock Climbing
6-
Trojnožka
m left of the SE edge up the wall diagonally right to the edge to the ring. Along the… Rock Climbing
2+
Trojnožka
In the middle of the plateau wall to the crack. Through it into the niche, higher up via… Rock Climbing
4+
Trojnožka
Southern route into the niche, traverse left and twin crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Trojnožka
Through the chimney in the valley face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Mlýnská věž
Left in the E face from the ledge diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Mlýnská věž
From the S, through the chimney between the tower and the NE fore-summit (or from the N… Rock Climbing
5
Mlýnská věž
Start about 7 m left of the valley crack, up the overhanging corner to a shelf, up the… Rock Climbing
4+
Mlýnská věž
Up the crack in the E face of the NE fore-summit to the top of the fore-summit. By… Rock Climbing
2+
Mlýnská věž
Up the small face right of the pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Mlýnská věž
From the ledge in the E face to the NE edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Mlýnská věž
Left of the pillar, along the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Bivaková věž
Along the right upper edge and face to the false summit, higher up left over the iron… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mlýnská věž
At the valley edge, up the corner crack below the overhang. Diagonally left up the face,… Rock Climbing
4+
Mlýnská věž
Left of the chimney that separates the NE fore-summit from the base of the tower, via… Rock Climbing
4+
Bivaková věž
In the valley face, up the overhanging crack and chimney in the corner to the false… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Bivaková věž
At the left upper edge, up the overhanging face to the iron ledge, traverse left into a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Deštivá jehla
Along the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Deštivá jehla
Up the east face diagonally left to the edge /hour/. Along the old route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Bivaková věž
Right on the upper side, through the chimney to the wedged boulder and up the face to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Deštivá jehla
Right in the upper W face to the edge /hour/ and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Dolská jehla
Overhang from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Dolská jehla
At the NW edge, first step right, then left to the edge. Along it to the balcony and… Rock Climbing
4-
Dolská jehla
Up the wall over the false summit to the saddle and traverse left to cross the Valley… Rock Climbing
3
Dolská jehla
Along the SW edge to the balcony and left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Dolská jehla
From the massif, descend to the ledge and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing

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