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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Dolská jehla
Along the SW edge to the balcony and left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Mlýnský kámen
Between the tower and the massif on the right via a wide stem and crack to the balcony.… Rock Climbing
3
Mlýnský kámen
Between the tower and the massif, in the center of the plateau wall, via a wide stem and… Rock Climbing
6-
Mlýnský kámen
In the left part of the valley wall traverse right along a ledge and up an overhanging… Rock Climbing
4+
Mlýnský kámen
From the gorge between the tower and the massif, along the left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Mlýnský kámen
Traverse along a ledge in the massif and a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Mlýnský kámen
From the plateau edge traverse left and via a chimney to the balcony. Up the W wall to… Rock Climbing
2
Manhattan
From the saddle, right via a chimney, higher up steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Šerif
From the N via a chimney to a large balcony, briefly follow path e) traversing right and… Rock Climbing
3
Šerif
Along the crack in the E wall diagonally left and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Manhattan
From the saddle up the wall, higher traverse left into the chimney of the "Old Path" and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mlýnský kámen
Completely to the right in the valley wall into an alcove, via a delicate traverse left… Rock Climbing
4+
Ferdinandův roh
Left in the valley wall via a shallow groove to the ring. Directly up the wall, higher… Rock Climbing
4-
Šerif
Right in the SW wall via an overhanging wall to a step and diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Šerif
Left in the SW wall via an overhanging wall over a ring into a shallow gully (hourglass)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ferdinandův roh
In the middle of the valley wall via a shallow gully upwards to the hourglass. From there… Rock Climbing
3
Šerif
Along the plateau edge over an overhang and diagonally right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Ferdinandův roh
From the overgrown terrace in the right part of the valley wall, along the S edge via… Rock Climbing
4+
Ferdinandův roh
In the left part of the E wall along the crack to the 1st step. Follow path d) to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Ferdinandův roh
In the left part of the E wall via a narrow chimney to the 2nd step of path d). Follow… Rock Climbing
3
Ferdinandův roh
To the right of path e) via an overgrown gully to the balcony, traverse right and… Rock Climbing
5+
Ferdinandův roh
Through a large corner in the E wall (ring) under the overhang, right to the edge to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Ferdinandův roh
In the right part of the valley wall via a gully and chimney to the plateau. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
4+
Ferdinandův roh
Through the center of the E wall to the platform, left over the overhang and via the wall… Rock Climbing
5
Čtvrtá Ferdinandova věž
To the right of the 'Old Route', through the center of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Čtvrtá Ferdinandova věž
From the boulder to the left in the S wall, along the rib to the ledge (ring). Diagonally… Rock Climbing
3
Ferdinandův roh
In the E wall, via the ledge left to a small platform, through the corner and right over… Rock Climbing
4+
Čtvrtá Ferdinandova věž
From the plateau side, traverse right to the center of the S wall. Through the groove and… Rock Climbing
5
Čtvrtá Ferdinandova věž
In the left part of the valley wall, via the corner (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Čtvrtá Ferdinandova věž
From the base of the NW tower, via the corner and twin crack to the false summit. Via the… Rock Climbing

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