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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Rybář
From the massif, step across and up the wall to the right of the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Rybář
From the massif, an overflow onto the wall left of the South chimney. Diagonally left up… Rock Climbing
4+
Rybář
Immediately to the right of the Old Route, up the wall (or via a layback) to a small… Rock Climbing
4+
Šťastlivec
Along the NW edge (left of the "Old Route") directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Šťastlivec
From the West via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Rybář
To the right in the plateau wall along the flake diagonally right and via the crack,… Rock Climbing
4+
Rybář
About 6m right of the Old Route via a layback and up the wall over the ring directly to… Rock Climbing
2
Rybář
From the saddle, traverse left along the ledge into the valley wall and via the chimney… Rock Climbing
3
Rybář
Like the Valley chimney 3m up, first up the wall via steps diagonally left. Briefly back… Rock Climbing
4+
Rybář
Along the rounded W edge over the overhang, up the wall to the left to a small balcony.… Rock Climbing
4+
Rybář
From the beginning of the South chimney, a long traverse left to the ring, up the wall… Rock Climbing
2+
Rybář
From the saddle left up an inclined chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Pstruh
In the middle of the plateau wall, up the wall to the ring, diagonally left up the wall… Rock Climbing
5
Pstruh
In the plateau wall diagonally right via cracks and up the wall (ring) directly to the… Rock Climbing
2
Rybář
Left of the Old Route via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Pstruh
Via the Beaver Dam into the recess, from there right along the crack directly onto the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Rodiče
Like Morpheus's route to the ring, higher up the wall to the left to the Father peak and… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Rodiče
Along the SW edge of Father to the ledge and further along the edge to the Father peak.… Rock Climbing
4-
Pstruh
From the right along the wall to the W edge and along that to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Pstruh
In the right part of the valley wall, via a small chimney to the ledge, traverse left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Pstruh
Approach like the East Face (with aid) and diagonally left up the wall into the recess,… Rock Climbing
5+
Pstruh
Along the edge (with stance) briefly upwards, traverse right and up the wall to the ring.… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Rodiče
In the middle of the S face of Father by stepping onto the ledge to the ring. Right along… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Rodiče
Like the East chimney, about 6m up, left along the edge and wall over the ring to the… Rock Climbing
5
Rodiče
In the center of the S wall, briefly up the wall to an overgrown ledge, via a corner… Rock Climbing
4+
Rodiče
To the left in the S wall, via an overhanging ridge to an overgrown ledge, to the right… Rock Climbing
2+
Rodiče
From the East chimney to the saddle between the Father and Mother peaks. Old route to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Rodiče
From the start of the Evening Ridge, left into the valley wall to a large platform.… Rock Climbing
5+
Rodiče
Via Echo to the ring and from there directly over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Rodiče
To the left of the West Chimney, via a corner and crack to a rock window, then via an… Rock Climbing

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