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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Strážní kámen
From the plateau side traverse left along the ledge to the saddle on the N edge and then… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Strážní kámen
Up the plateau face over the ring and hourglass to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Strážní kámen
Through the gully in the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážní kámen
"Northwest Way" and the left crack in the SW face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Památník odsunutých lezců
From the balcony on the valley wall via a large overhang along cracks and above the… Rock Climbing Overhang
8-/8
Ferdinand
Via the "Fourth Dimension" route to the 1st ring. Diagonally right to the 2nd ring, along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Kamenická věž
From the saddle right to the ledge, along the edge and up the valley wall diagonally… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Ferdinand
In the valley wall, overhang over 2 rings and left beyond the edge to the 3rd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kamenická věž
Up the S wall over 2 rings below the overhang, from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kamenická věž
Up the chimney on the left in the valley wall to the walkway (also accessible from the… Rock Climbing
6
Ferdinand
Start with a crack in the S wall, higher diagonally left via the small chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kamenická věž
Briefly via the "Southern Route" by positioning left into the wall and to the 1st ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Kamenická věž
Up a fine crack to the ring and directly over the overhang to the 1st ring of "The Way of… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kamenická věž
From the 3rd ring directly up the wall over the 4th ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Kamenická věž
To the right of the "Riviera" route along the edge to the 1st ring and the right part of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Kamenická věž
Completely on the left in the S wall, directly up the overhanging wall over 4 rings to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Kamenická věž
Up the corner in the S wall to half the height of the wall, step left, up the crack and… Rock Climbing
6
Kamenická věž
In the middle of the valley wall from the balcony directly over 2 rings under the roof… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Kamenická věž
From the pre-summit along the walkway to the left and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Kamenická věž
Up the plateau wall to the pre-summit and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Ky-Ka-Ma
From the 3rd ring of "Silent Horror" straight over 2 BH to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
7+/8-
Ky-Ka-Ma
To the right of route b) along the blunt edge (ring) to the 2nd ring. From the left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Ky-Ka-Ma
Via the Columbia route to the 1st ring. Diagonally right into the pedestal and through it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Ky-Ka-Ma
In the right part of the largest overhang (approach from the tourist path by the water).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Ky-Ka-Ma
From the start of the "Atlantis" route diagonally right to the 1st ring. Right up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Ky-Ka-Ma
In the left part of the S wall diagonally left onto the balcony, directly up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Kamenická jehla
Right in the S wall to the ring, through the corner and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Ky-Ka-Ma
Approach left of the "Magnum" route up the wall over 6 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Ky-Ka-Ma
Approach identical to the "Columbia" route up the wall directly over the BH (bolt hanger)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Ky-Ka-Ma
Up the wall over the BH (bolt hanger) diagonally right to the ring, directly up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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