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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Poslední stěna (Samotář)
Right in the SE wall via a crack or edge left and directly over the overhang, up the wall… Rock Climbing
5
Lacerta viridis
Start via the "Valley Chimney" route. After 3m diagonally right (4x hours) to the summit… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Poslední stěna (Samotář)
Through the center of the SW wall, difficult to the 1st K (unsecured), further using two… Rock Climbing
3
Lacerta viridis
Via the chimney between the tower and the massif to a ledge in the plateau wall and along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Lacerta viridis
From E from the massif, descent, overflow (jump - 1) to the edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Škopek
In the S wall via a fine crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Zaječí doupě
Directly up the overhanging right valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Škopek
From the gorge up the rib to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Zaječí doupě
In the left part of the valley wall over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Škopek
Up the valley edge to the crack and then up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Škopek
In the center of the S wall up the rib (bolt) and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Zaječí doupě
Up the right plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Termit
From the plateau side, traverse 1.5 meters below the ledge of the "Old Route" up to below… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Termit
From the base of the valley wall along the W ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Termit
From the gorge to the ledge on the S wall (hourglasses) and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Termit
Up the wall over an overhang to the W ridge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Termit
Right up the plateau edge over an overhang and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Termit
Approx. 2m from the plateau edge over an overhang and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Termit
In the center of the S wall over an overhang and up the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Termit
In the center of the N wall through a shallow corner to a ledge (can be traversed here… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Termit
Left on the S wall over an overhang (ring) and up the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Srbský kámen
From S over a small overhang (hourglasses) to Bh and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Srbský kámen
To the left of the route "Colors of Autumn" to the ring. Left onto the arête and up it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Srbský kámen
In the right part of the plateau wall over an overhang and Bh. directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Srbský kámen
Up the center of the valley (S) wall over the ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Srbský kámen
To the right in the N wall over the overhang and via the "Old Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Srbský kámen
Through the center of the plateau wall (below the rappel point) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Srbský kámen
From E over overhangs (hourglasses) and Bh directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Srbský kámen
Up the corner in the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Ventolin
Directly over the overhang and up the arête over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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