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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

1
Housličky
Up the overhanging wall to the top (n.v. - na vrchol, to the top).
6
Housličky
Through the corner under the overhang and right to the bolt. Through a delicate notch to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Housličky
Through the small corner in the center of the wall to the left under a small overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Housličky
Up the overhanging hawk-like rib over a horizontal crack to a bolt. Up the small wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Housličky
To the left on the valley wall, up the structured small wall to the top (n.t. - na terasu… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Housličky
Start 4 m left of the NE edge onto a ledge to a bolt and over the protruding block to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Beranidlo
To the left on the valley wall over piled boulders under the overhang and left up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Beranidlo
Over stacked blocks to the terrace left to the small balcony with a bolt. Slightly left… Rock Climbing
4+
Housličky
In the left part of the E wall through the breaking corner over a bolt onto a balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Beranidlo
Start into the recess to the 1st bolt. Through the hollow with a crack to a spacious… Rock Climbing
4+
Housličky
Along the NE edge over the bolt to the top (n.t. - na terasu, to the terrace or na… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Nimrod
By the corner up to the top (n.v. - na vrchol, to the top). Rock Climbing
2+
Nimrod
Up the wide chimney to the top (n.v. - na vrchol, to the top). Rock Climbing
5+
Nimrod
Up the left edge of the pillar over 2 bolts to the top (n.v. - na vrchol, to the top). Rock Climbing
6-
Nimrod
Up the center of the pillar wall over 2 bolts to the top (n.v. - na vrchol, to the top). Rock Climbing
5+
Nimrod
Along the edge over the bolt and directly up the crack to the top (n.v. - na vrchol, to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Nimrod
To the left of the "Náši" (Our) route, via 4 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Nimrod
To the left of the path "Nášup" up the wall directly over 3 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Nimrod
Up the center of the wall to the bolt and over the small overhang to the top (n.v. - na… Rock Climbing
6-
Nimrod
Start through the corner crack, left into another crack to the bolt (BH) and up the wall… Rock Climbing
4+
Nimrod
Through a crack and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Nimrod
Start via the Pravá hrana (Right Edge) route, then to the balcony (hourglass). Over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Nimrod
Start along the blunt edge to the 1st bolt (BH), over the overhang to the left to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Nimrod
Up the wall to the left of the corner crack to the bolt (BH) and into the crack of the… Rock Climbing
4-
Nimrod
Along the right edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Třetí karta
Through a narrow chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Třetí karta
Along the edge to the left of the large overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Třetí karta
Through a crack to the left of the large corner to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Třetí karta
About 15m to the left of the previous crack, through another crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Třetí karta
Through the corner in the middle of the wall and up the wall. Rock Climbing

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