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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Stromový masiv
In the left part of the wall, via a slight indentation along its left side over rock… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Sosnová věž
In the left part of the NW wall via a notch to a ledge and on the left along the edge… Rock Climbing
5+
Sosnová věž
Through the left part of the SW wall and via cracks over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Stromový masiv
Freely to the balcony (climbed via the "three-hour" route), further to the right via an… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1
5
Sosnová věž
Via the NE wall to a window, via a crack over an overhang and to a ledge. Along the edge… Rock Climbing
5+
Sosnová věž
Through the middle of the NW wall over K directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Sosnová věž
Along the narrow E edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Sosnová věž
Through the middle of the SW wall over K to the saddle and via the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing
5
Sosnová věž
Through the right part of the SW wall (K) to the saddle and via the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Sosnová věž
From the NW via the wall to the saddle and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Sosnová věž
To the right of the E edge via a small crack to the K and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sosnový masív
Along the left valley edge over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Sosnový masív
Approach from the gorge in the fall line of a mighty pine via a hand crack, higher up via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Malý masiv
In the left part of the Small Massif, via the gorge between the Pine and Small Massif… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Sosnový masív
Approach via the right valley edge (hourglass) onto a sandy ledge, from there diagonally… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6-
Sosnový masív
Through the middle of the valley wall over 2 K to the terrace. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Malý masiv
To the right of the route "Tonda's Rib" via a crack onto a ledge, further through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Sosnový masív
Approach from the gorge in the upper part into a short hand crack, and by that to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Zastrčený masív
In the right part of the massif, along the crack to K, through the center of the wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Zastrčený masív
Start along the edge into the crack to the flake, directly along the cracks (protection)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
4+
Zastrčený masív
Via a hand crack (plenty of protection) directly to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Šabota
Right in the left part of the valley wall, via an indistinct small crack and a depression… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Šabota
From the SW depression to the ledge (K) and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Šabota
From the bivouac in the valley wall, via an overhanging start into the corner crack, in… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Šabota
Along the edge to the ledge (protection), then left and further along the edge and higher… Rock Climbing
5
Šabota
Left in the valley wall, via a hand crack over K and further up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Šabota
From the ring of the "Valley Route" directly over the overhang and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Šabota
From the NE corner, via a crack widening into a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Šabota
Up the narrow SE wall (in the right half of the tower) along the edge over K to a large… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7-/7
Šabota
Right of the "Šofér" route, via a crack to the balcony, up the wall along small cracks to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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