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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Dědova vyhlídka
In the upper wall into the recess and along its right side to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
From the slope, traverse the wall to the right onto the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Babiččina vyhlídka
Through a crack and chimney in the right part of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7+/8-
Babiččina vyhlídka
To the right of "Sarka's Route", directly up the wall to a small balcony and further… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Babiččina vyhlídka
Up the wall over the K (fixed anchor) to the ledge, then through a crack and the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Babiččina vyhlídka
Through cracks completely to the right on the slope to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Babiččina vyhlídka
Through the middle of the inclined wall over 2 K (fixed anchors) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Babiččina vyhlídka
At the valley edge into the hole, through the crack to the ledge, then via the corner and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
Through the chimney in the left part of the SW wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
Through the recess in the left part of the inner space to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7-/7
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
Through the middle of the left pillar in the valley wall to the 1st K (fixed anchor).… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
Through the chimney between the peaks to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
Start as route. Route through the hourglass/feature from the left hole into the crack and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
From the start of the S chimney diagonally left to the K (fixed anchor) and up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
From the NW via the wall and recess to the edge (large hourglass/feature). Up the slabby… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
3
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
Through the chimney from the bivouac to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
To the right of the route "Spring Creep" via a gully and wall to the K (fixed anchor),… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
Through the hollow in the left part of the inner space to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
At the end of the inner space, via the overhanging part to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
At the end of the inner space, on the right side, via an overhanging corner to K. To the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
3
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
Through the wide chimney at the end of the inner space to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
To the right via the left SW pillar, through a gully to the ledge. Up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
From the right, via the right SW pillar and a hollow to K. Through the gully to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
In the left part of the SW wall, via a rounded edge and along the dihedral to the K. Left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
Start at the entrance to the inner chimney where there is a bivouac. On the right side,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
Through the wide chimney on the right in the W wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
Through the wide chimney on the right in the W wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
From the large hole, over an overhang into a crack and through it to K. Up into the斜… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
In the right part of the SW wall, via an overhanging dihedral to the K and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Eliščina skála - jižní vrchol
Via the SE chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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