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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Mikulášská stěna
From the route 'Cracks' traverse left on the wall to the 1st K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bielefeldská stěna
To the right in the valley wall, up the overgrown wall to a crack. By crack in the East… Rock Climbing
3
Bielefeldská stěna
By chimney from SW to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Bielefeldská stěna
Up the prominent pillar in the left part of the wall over 3 BH to a shelf. To the right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Bielefeldská stěna
Through the center of the valley wall into a hole, from the hole by a crack to its end… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Bielefeldská stěna
From the shelf over the 4th BH along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Bielefeldská stěna
In the right part of the valley wall through a large hole into a corner under an overhang… Rock Climbing
5+
Zlý pes
In the West face by cracks and higher up by chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Zlý pes
Left in the valley wall into the indentation, through it to the edge at K. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Zlý pes
One meter left of the West Crack, by a crack running to the left, to a shelf, and to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Nýtová stěna
Through the SW corner below the overhang, traverse right into a short crack and through… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Zlý pes
Middle of the valley wall via a crack to K. Right into the crack, through it n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
0
Zlý pes
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Nýtová stěna
Through a shallow corner in the SW edge below the overhang and left up the wall n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Zlý pes
Right in the valley wall through a corner and crack to K. Left into the crack, through it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Nýtová stěna
From W in the left part of the wall along a crack to a small balcony and up the wall n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Nýtová stěna
From K of the 'Whipped Cream Cake' route, traverse left behind the edge and along it … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
4+
Nýtová stěna
Middle of the W wall along a zigzag crack n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Nýtová stěna
Right of the valley SW edge up the wall along small pillars and the wall (K) into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Nýtová stěna
Via the Southwest Corner route to the end of the corner and left up the wall along a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Nýtová stěna
SW corner n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Nýtová stěna
Left in the S wall along the edge over a small hole over K n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Nýtová stěna
Right of the S edge to K and through a fine crack n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Nýtová stěna
Middle of the valley S wall via a corner crack n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Nýtová stěna
Middle of the S wall through a crack diagonally left, then higher up the wall over steps… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Nýtová stěna
Left of the bolt in the S wall via a crack to K. Further along the crack higher up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Nýtová stěna
Right SE valley edge (K) n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7/7+
Nýtová stěna
Middle of the valley wall over 2 K n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Nýtová stěna
Up the wall diagonally left along cracks to K. Into the ledge and via a short overhanging… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Doga
In the right part of the N wall to the horizontal notch, through it left to the corner… Rock Climbing

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