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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Medvědí věž
Up the wall above the staircase to a curved crack and along it to K, then right along the… Rock Climbing
2+
Medvědí věž
Via the SW route and then along the ledge to the left and up the wall further up. Rock Climbing
9+
Winklerovy věže
Via Xychtomaz route to 2. K and then straight and left into a large hole and to 2. K of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Winklerovy věže
From E via the small pinnacle to K, up the wall into the chimney and further up it. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Winklerovy věže
Through the middle of the S face over a hole into a crack and along it to K, then up the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Winklerovy věže
(Straightening of the route Hailstorm Route. From 2. K of the Hailstorm Route directly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
9/9+
Winklerovy věže
Between the routes Hailstorm Route and Memories of the Future directly up the wall over 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Winklerovy věže
North face of the South tower via cracks to the right edge (K, further up the wall and… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Winklerovy věže
Through the strongly overhanging Northwest face over the hole to the 1st K and further up… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Winklerovy věže
In the right part of the S face of the S tower, traverse right along the rib into the… Rock Climbing
6-
Winklerovy věže
Via the chimney between the North and South towers. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Winklerovy věže
From the 1st K of the route 'Run of Shadows' directly up the wall (K, further upwards,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
8/8+
Winklerovy věže
Left of the route 'Premonition of Shadow' (giant hourglass and overhang (K into the small… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6
Winklerovy věže
Via the Southeast edge of the South tower around K, later through a crack along the edge… Rock Climbing Danger
7/7+
Winklerovy věže
Via the Southeast edge of the North tower over K to the top. Rock Climbing Danger
5
Winklerovy věže
In the right part of the South face of the North tower to a sloping ledge and along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Winklerovy věže
Below the abseil point, via the 'Valley Route' 3 m into the hole, to the right into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Winklerovy věže
Through the overhanging South face into the hole, further through the overhanging crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Winklerovy věže
Right of the route 'Edge of Formica Faces' through the center of the pillar directly over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Danger
4+
Winklerovy věže
Right of the chimney via the rib and crack up to the upper part of the chimney. Rock Climbing
4+
Winklerovy věže
Middle of the East face via the chimney (narrow spot halfway up, then upwards to the top.… Rock Climbing Danger
6
Žabí korunka
To the right of the chimney along the crack to the ledge, then directly n. t. (unknown… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Žabí korunka
Descent from the massif, step over and along the edge of the Normal Route n. v. (Normal… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
8/8+
Slon - severní věž
In the left part of the S wall (left of the Sleepy Route) from the gorge up and over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Slon - severní věž
Along the Northern Route to K, further directly through the cracks to 2. K and up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Slon - severní věž
In the S wall to the left of the passage over K n. v. (Normal Way). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Danger
7/7+
Slon - severní věž
Climbed cleanly. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Slon - severní věž
From the passage in the S wall, by construction over the overhang, then along the … Rock Climbing
5+
Slon - severní věž
From SE from the route by powerful construction into a large overhang and briefly to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Slon - severní věž
To the right of the Builders' Route, up the small wall and shallow cracks into the wall … Rock Climbing Textile belay

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