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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Severní Herkulův sloup
Up the chimney from the W to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Severní Herkulův sloup
Along the SW edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Severní Herkulův sloup
In the W wall via a small pillar and buttress to K, then slightly left and along the edge… Rock Climbing
5+
Severní Herkulův sloup
Up the wall diagonally to the right (K), via the buttress and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Jižní Herkulův sloup
In the left part of the N wall over 2 K and slightly right n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Jižní Herkulův sloup
From the upper side, a step-over and a short E wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Jižní Herkulův sloup
To the left of the Holy Path in the N wall, by pillar onto a glued block (loop) and by… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
3
Jižní Herkulův sloup
From the upper side, descent, step-over and S. wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Jižní Herkulův sloup
Through the middle of the wall into the crack and by it onto the step. Up the small wall… Rock Climbing
9+
Tunelová věž
In the north wall along the left edge directly over the ring to the 2nd ring of the path… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Tunelová věž
Start as Děčínská - var., further to the 'clocks' (pitons) and right over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
0
Jižní Herkulův sloup
Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Tunelová věž
In the right part of the E wall around the hole over 1st K, slightly left and further up… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Tunelová věž
From 2nd K directly up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Tunelová věž
Through the middle of the E wall with cracks left upwards below the ledge. On the ledge,… Rock Climbing
9+
Tunelová věž
By Radio 1 path to 1st K and further left along a blunt edge to the left to 1st K of Hogo… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Tunelová věž
In the NW edge through a crack and left to 1st K, wall along the edge (2nd K) and further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Tunelová věž
From the 2nd K of the Brain Disorder path, over the 3rd K directly n. v. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Tunelová věž
To the right of the NW edge by a small pillar to 1st K, right into the crack to 2nd K,… Rock Climbing
9+
Tunelová věž
Start as the Greguš's Glass path and traverse right to K. Directly up the wall over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Tunelová věž
In the N wall through a hole into the rib and by it to K. Left into the crack and around… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Tunelová věž
From K of Greguš's Glass path directly to K. Upwards and slightly left onto the ledge (K… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Tunelová věž
To the left of the Beer Idea path, up the wall into the hole of 1st K, from there… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
8-/8
Tunelová věž
Overhanging wall to the left of the path Dopijem a jdem over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Tunelová věž
From K right into the Old Route. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Tunelová věž
In the right part of the passage face between Teplická and Tunnel Tower over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Tunelová věž
W wall (to the right of Brain Disorder to the 1st K of the Southwest Path. From there,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7-/7
Teplická věž
Completely to the right in the E face to the 1st K, from it upwards right to the 2nd K of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Teplická věž
Left of the E edge upwards, then right via a small corner to a step to K. Left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Teplická věž
Via the crack in the E face to K, right, back left and upwards to the 2nd K, further… Rock Climbing

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