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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Africká věž
In the right part of the North face around the anchor, then upwards. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Africká věž
To the right of the 'Charming Route', up the wall to the 1st anchor. Then directly up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Africká věž
To the right of the 'Overhanging Revue' route, via a small pinnacle into a hole (1st… Rock Climbing
4-
Africká věž
By a crack in the center of the North face, then upwards. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Africká věž
To the right of the 'Bad Dream' route, via an overhang and traverse into the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Africká věž
In the North face over 3 anchors, then upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Africká věž
In the West face, to the right up the wall and via a gully to the top of 'Mouřenín' (Moor… Rock Climbing
2
Africká věž
In the Northwest corner, to the left up a chimney and up the steps, then upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Africká věž
In the Northwest corner, to the right via a chimney over an overhang and to the right to… Rock Climbing
4-
Africká věž
At the left Northwest edge via an overhanging crack. Rock Climbing
6-
Africká věž
To the left of the 'Western Gully', up the wall through a hole to the anchor, then up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Africká věž
Approximately 2 m to the left of the Southwest ridge, by a crack directly to the bench. Rock Climbing
5+
Africká věž
To the right of the 'Western Crack', up the wall to the small pinnacle and to the anchor,… Rock Climbing
4-
Africká věž
By a narrow crack to the left of the 'Mama's Boy Route', then upwards. Rock Climbing
6-
Africká věž
To the left of the 'Sandy Path' route, up the wall into a hole and to the anchor. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Africká věž
At the end of the crack of the 'Sandy Path' route, directly up the wall over the anchor,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Africká věž
By the crack to the left of the 'Narrow Crack'. Rock Climbing
6-
Africká věž
Up the wall in the left part of the South face via the anchor to a ledge and then upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Africká věž
Along the Southwest ridge to a ledge and then further upwards. Rock Climbing
6-
Africká věž
To the left of the 'Path of Laughter' route, up the wall via dK (anchor installed in 1984… Rock Climbing
5+
Africká věž
From K of the Path of Laughter route directly into the crack of the Southern Wall route. Rock Climbing
4+
Africká věž
In the right part of the S wall into a notch and onto a ledge. Left into the crack and up… Rock Climbing
5+
Africká věž
Through the middle of the South face via a crack and to the right over a hole (or… Rock Climbing
6
Africká věž
Along the SE edge under the overhang to K. Over the overhang left to the 2nd K and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Africká věž
To the left of the Southern Wall route into the hole and right through the crack to K. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Africká věž
By a wide chimney on the E side to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Luxor
Up the middle of the wall to the right of the prominent rib over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4-
Africká věž
From the V in the gap to the right of the Old Route, up the chimney above the passage … Rock Climbing
5
Africká věž
Along the Old Route to the block, traverse left behind the edge to K and up the wall with… Rock Climbing
5+
Luxor
Up the middle of the overhanging V-shaped wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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