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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Kurtovy věže - jihovýchodní věž
Through the center of the NE face via the wall and crack to K. Right to the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kurtovy věže - jihovýchodní věž
Above the overhang right onto the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kurtovy věže - jihovýchodní věž
To the left of the Old Route via a hand crack to the end and right into the Old Route. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kurtovy věže - jihovýchodní věž
From the end of the Entrance Variant crack to the left into the next crack, through it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Kurtovy věže - jihovýchodní věž
In the right part of the SW wall into the crack, through it into the recess. Further… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kurtovy věže - jihovýchodní věž
From the recess right into the crack and up it. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kurtovy věže - jihovýchodní věž
Through the center of the SW face into a hole, traverse left to a crack, to its end,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Dračí masiv
In the right part of the N face over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Dračí masiv
In the left part of the N face to K. Then up the difficult wall into a crack and up it n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Dračí masiv
Through the center of the wall over 3 K n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Radost
South edge n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6-
Dračí masiv
In the NW face through holes to K and over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Radost
Along the W edge directly n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
3
Radost
Up the SW wall along a prominent rock pinnacle n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6-
Radost
In the right part of the NE face to a balcony and directly over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Dračí masiv
On the right edge in the overhang, 1st K of the Abraka Dabra route, and further over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Nirvána
Through an oblique crack in the SE face n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Nirvána
North edge over the belly to K. From there slightly left through a gully and directly n.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Nirvána
Up the NW overhanging wall over K to a small ledge and then up the corner n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Nirvána
In the right half of the massif into a vertical, in the upper half open, C-shaped crack… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Nirvána
Along a shallow crack in the right part of the massif into a horizontal notch. Then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Radost
Up the left part of the SW wall via steps n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Sťatý major
At the end of the crack above the overhang to the right. Rock Climbing
6
Sťatý major
Start via the Valley route. Under the overhang left to K, along the edge to the K of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7-/7
Sťatý major
In the left part of the East face into a hole ('hodiny' - literally 'clocks', a type of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sťatý major
Through the middle of the East face into a hole, K to the right. Left up to the 2nd K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Sťatý major
Up the wall to the left of "Fantasmagorie" to the large 'hodiny' (rock formation), via… Rock Climbing
5+
Sťatý major
Through the middle of the South face to a hole and over the overhang to K, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Sťatý major
From K to the left to a hole and straight up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Sťatý major
Up the middle of the South face and later left to K. Up the wall under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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