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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Malá jehla
To the left of the route Božský klid (Divine Peace) via the overhanging S edge over bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Zvoneček
In the N wall via chimney between pillar and massif, crack over bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Sněhová věž
Right in the S wall to the ledge and from there up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Sněhová věž
From the massif a jump into the SE wall and to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5
Sněhová věž
Up the wall of the adjacent pillar to the platform and from there up the overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Sněhová věž
Overhanging wall over K into the crack and higher up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Sněhová věž
Center of the E wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Sněhová věž
In the right part of the E wall by a notch to the platform and to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Ledukinova věž
S edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Ledukinova věž
Left in the SE wall by a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Ledukinova věž
Right in the SE wall by a crack directly to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Ledukinova věž
Left in the N wall by a crack to its end to K. To the left by a notch to 2nd K and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Ledukinova věž
Center of the NW wall by a crack and directly up the wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Ledukinova věž
Left in the plateau wall along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Ledukinova věž
In the NW wall by a crack to the window and to the right by another crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Ledukinova věž
Right in the NW wall by an indistinct edge to K, from there directly to 2nd K of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Borůvčí věž
Left of the S edge by a diagonal cut to the right up to a large 'clock'. Over the… Rock Climbing
4+
Borůvčí věž
From the right side of the SE wall diagonally left up over a brittle overhanging wall… Rock Climbing
2+
Ledukinova věž
In the left part of the plateau SW wall by rib to the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Borůvčí věž
From Ledukinov Tower descent about 2 m and jump to the summit of Borůvčí Tower. Rock Climbing
5
Borůvčí věž
From the middle of the SE wall diagonally right up behind the edge onto a ledge in the S… Rock Climbing
3
Borůvčí věž
Middle of the SW wall into a hole, left up to a platform and to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Gottwald - jižní vrchol
Left in the S wall by rib to K. Left to the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Gottwald - jižní vrchol
Middle of the S wall by rib and higher by crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Gottwald - jižní vrchol
Right in the S wall by rib to the right to the edge ('clock'). Along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
4-
Gottwald - jižní vrchol
From the gully left in the S wall by crack and higher by chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Gottwald - jižní vrchol
Middle of the S wall by crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Gottwald - hlavní vrchol
From the S side by crack above the passage under the tower to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7+/8-
Gottwald - hlavní vrchol
In the S wall to the right of the tourist path passage via 3 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Gottwald - hlavní vrchol
Middle of the S wall of the E summit by wall into a hole ('clock'). By crack under the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay

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