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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Strážce přístavu
In the middle of the valley wall, up the rib and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce přístavu
From the start of the North Rib, traverse left along the ledge to its end. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
5
Strážce přístavu
In the left part of the narrow East wall, up the wall under the overhang (ring). Up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce přístavu
In the North wall, 3m left of the Old Route, up the rib and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce přístavu
In the middle of the North wall, up the wall and crack (crossing the North Traverse) to… Rock Climbing
3
Strážce přístavu
On the far right of the valley wall, up the wall, higher to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Strážce přístavu
Directly up the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Blesková jehla
Up the overhanging NE edge to a ledge and then further along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Blesková jehla
Up the crack in the West wall to the ledge and then left up the South wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Blesková jehla
Up the wall along the NW edge to a small balcony with a ring (in a hole). Over the… Rock Climbing
6
Blesková jehla
Directly up the middle of the North face to the ring of the "Bič a pryč" (Whip and Away)… Rock Climbing
4-
Blesková jehla
Directly up the SE edge to the ledge and then via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Topograf
To the right of Náhorní cesta (Plateau Route) up the wall into a horizontal gully, then a… Rock Climbing
3
Blesková jehla
Up the crack in the East wall to the ledge and then up the South wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Topograf
From V up the chimney or traverse from the saddle left into the crack, then up to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Blesková jehla
Directly up the SW edge to the ledge and then via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Východní soutěsková věž
Up the center of the plateau wall via a ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Topograf
From the highest point in the plateau wall, up the wall and left through the crack to the… Rock Climbing
3
Topograf
In the plateau wall via steps, higher up a small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Východní soutěsková věž
Left in the plateau wall, obliquely left up the wall to the ring. Obliquely left around… Rock Climbing
4-
Východní soutěsková věž
From the start of the Old Route, up the wall to the right, higher along the SW edge to… Rock Climbing
5
Lemon
From the gully (from NW) up the wall to the right on ledges to an overhanging crack and… Rock Climbing
5+
Lemon
To the left of Kysela's Route, up the wall to the ledge (ring). Aid climbing up the wall… Rock Climbing
4-
Východní soutěsková věž
Up the center of the N wall along the rib to the ledge and directly up the wall or left… Rock Climbing
3
Východní soutěsková věž
Up the center of the valley wall to the ledge and left through the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Lemon
From the massif, traverse and up the crack of the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Východní soutěsková věž
Via the North Route to the ledge, from there up the wall to the left and through the… Rock Climbing
5+
Lemon
In the valley wall (aid climbing) and corner (ring) to the ledge. Up the wall and crack… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Lemon
To the left of the Gorge Route, via a crack to the ring. Up the wall over large… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Lemon
From the gully via a crack and higher up the left crack to the summit. Rock Climbing

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