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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Lemon
To the left of the Gorge Route, via a crack to the ring. Up the wall over large… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Lemon
From the gully via a crack and higher up the left crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Pidižvík
From the NE, through the indentation and directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Pidižvík
In the center of the S wall, directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Čilimník
From the massif, a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Čilimník
From the massif descend and traverse into the chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Pidižvík
From the balcony along the SW edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Pidižvík
Up the center of the SE wall via 2 rings, higher obliquely to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Čilimník
From the massif descend and traverse to the E edge and then along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Čilimník
By the V-edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Čilimník
From the edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Čilimník
In the center of the S wall, directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Čilimník
To the left of the East Edge, directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Čilimník
From the start of the "Old Route" diagonally left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Čilimník
From the upper side by chimneying and to the right by the wall through a hole to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Západní soutěsková věž
By climbing/stemming onto the SW edge, along it and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Západní soutěsková věž
To the left in the NW wall, diagonally right and upwards to a bolt. Traverse left to a… Rock Climbing
6
Západní soutěsková věž
To the left of the Corner Variant of the Valley Route, directly up the wall over 2 bolts,… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Západní soutěsková věž
Start between the "Valley Route" and the "Corner Variant" via the wall, a bolt leads to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Soutěsková jehla
From the N, descend from the massif and step across to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Západní soutěsková věž
By a chimney from the upper side, higher up right over steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Soutěsková jehla
From the massif to the left by a crack, descend, traverse to the tower and scramble to… Rock Climbing
5
Západní soutěsková věž
By the right valley crack to the ledge, left by the corner to the overhang. Traverse left… Rock Climbing
4-
Západní soutěsková věž
To the left of the Old Route by the wall to the ledge, cross left to the edge and along… Rock Climbing
5
Západní soutěsková věž
By the left valley crack to the ledge and along the valley route to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Soutěsková jehla
From the E by a chimney between the tower and the massif, higher up left along the edge… Rock Climbing
2+
Stěna Sporného potoka
To the right of the upper edge by the wall, higher up diagonally right along the ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Stěna Sporného potoka
By the wall along the upper edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Stěna Sporného potoka
In the center of the S wall by a small crack further to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Stěna Sporného potoka
3m to the right of the Old Route by a corner, higher up by cracks further to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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