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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Francouzský parčík
From the left by chimney, by wall right to the ledge (bolt) and from the right by slab (!… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Francouzský parčík
By crack leading leftwards upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Francouzský parčík
By overhanging notches to the ledge and by wall (bolt) upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Kormidlo
In the middle of the massif, up a crack and wall to the ring. Directly up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
5
Kormidlo
To the right of the "Sea Wolf" route, a prominent falcon-like feature to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Francouzský parčík
From the boulder left of the edge to the ledge (bolt) and by the 'Lazy Gardener' route… Rock Climbing
5
Kormidlo
To the right of the "Kelp" route, up the wall and through small falcon-like features to… Rock Climbing
3
Francouzský parčík
By prominent corner and higher by crack upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Francouzský parčík
By crack in the right part of the wall upwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Francouzský parčík
By indistinct edge and higher by sloping wall upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Francouzský parčík - pilíř
By the north chimney upwards. Rock Climbing
6-
Kometa
To the right of the left valley edge via a crack and wall to the ring. Directly under the… Rock Climbing
2+
Kometa
Behind the left valley edge via a chimney to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing
6
Kometa
Directly via a crack over the overhang to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing
5+
Kometa
To the right of the route 'Stardust' via sokolíks to the ring and a crack to the summit … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Stůl
Vertical wall to the 1st bolt (Bh). Blunt edge and wall over the 2nd bolt (Bh) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Stůl
Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Prohibiční masív
In the middle of the valley wall via a sloping gash to a ledge (spike) to the bolt (bh). Rock Climbing
?
Prohibiční masív
Overhanging crack in the left part of the wall under a large block. From the left to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Stůl
Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Stůl
In the western face via the sokolík to a large boulder, then via a gently sloping wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Široká pec
Along the right edge to the crack and via the stepped wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Vysoká pec
Via the stepped wall to the ledge and through the middle of the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Stůl
Along the right (NW) edge of the valley wall to the balcony and a depression under the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Stůl
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Stůl
In the left part of the valley side from the ledge via a slab into the broken corner to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Stůl
Up the center of the wall from the ledge via a sloping slab over the 1st bolt (Bh) to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Cihlák
Along the right edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Vysoká pec
Along the blunt right edge under the overhang, traverse right and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Berta
By the wall to the left of the pillar n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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