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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Stěna Sporného potoka
By a crack in the NE wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Stěna Sporného potoka
By the wall along the N edge to the balcony, higher up by the wall further to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Stěna Sporného potoka
To the right in the valley wall by an overgrown gully further to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Sporýš
Through the chimney in the S wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Stěna Sporného potoka
In the left part of the NW wall, by the wall to the right of the large appendage into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Stěna Sporného potoka
In the SW wall by a chimney, higher up by the wall further to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Stěna Sporného potoka
To the left in the S wall by a small crack to the block and to the right by the slab wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Sporýš
To the right in the S wall over a block to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sporýš
By a crack in the N wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Stěna Sporného potoka
In the right part of the valley wall, from the left above the overhang and by the wall… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
6
Sporýš
In the left part of the S wall, by an overhang over a bolt to the balcony and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Věž u Sporného potoka
To the right of the Old Route, by a crack in the E wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Věž u Sporného potoka
Along the overhanging edge to the right of the Old Route, over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Sporýš
Approach SE. By a crack to the ledge of the Right Route, up it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sporýš
2 m to the right of "Variant Right Route" by cracks to the ledge of the "Right Route" and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5+
Sporýš
To the right of the Thyme route, by a crack over a wedged boulder and through the center… Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall +1
6-
Věž u Sporného potoka
Through the center of the S wall over K directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Věž u Sporného potoka
By a crack in the center of the NE wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž u Sporného potoka
To the left of the Northeast crack, up the wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Věž u Sporného potoka
To the left of the north edge, along the crack on an overhanging wall (bolt) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Věž u Sporného potoka
Along the right valley edge over the ring directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Věž u Sporného potoka
Along the N edge, higher up along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž u Sporného potoka
From W, by a double crack and corner to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Zakrslá věž
By a crack in the left part of the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Kormidlo
Completely on the left in the NW part of the massif, up a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Věž u Sporného potoka
In the edge, along a subtle rib to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž u Sporného potoka
On the left in the SE wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zakrslá věž
By an indistinct edge in the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Věž u Sporného potoka
From SE, through the corner over blocks to the saddle and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kormidlo
To the right of the "Orca" route, up a small wall to a ledge and a curved crack to the… Rock Climbing

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