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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Starý Trantor
Up the chimney over the block to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Starý Trantor
2 m left of the notch via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Starý Trantor
Right of the bivouac via a wide overhanging crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Starý Trantor
Via a prominent notch to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Starý Trantor
Up the overhanging notch and from the left to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Starý Trantor
Left of the route 'Key Place' up the wall along the edge via the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Starý Trantor
Via the notch to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Starý Trantor
By a prominent corner notch n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Starý Trantor
Via a prominent crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Starý Trantor
To the left of the valley edge by an overhang and gully to the hourglass, by the gully to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Starý Trantor
2 m to the left of the notch by overhanging cracks n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Starý Trantor
Start via the route 'Light Year' to the clock, right onto the block to the bolt. Continue… Rock Climbing
2+
Starý Trantor
By a prominent edge or to the right by the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Veselý turista
By the crack to the right in the wall over the band n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Nosatec
From K 2m left and up the center of the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Nosatec
To the left of Šlégl's path by the wall and a gentle corner to K, by the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Veselý turista
By the crack of the path "Nature Trail" to a large ledge, up the center of the wall over… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Nosatec
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Veselý turista
By the valley edge (K) n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Nosatec
In the right part of the valley wall by a crack to the pre-summit, step-over n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Nosatec
By the wall to the left of the Valley Chimney through a hole (hourglass) and left to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Nosatec
Through the chimney between the pre-summit and the main summit n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Nosatec
To the right of the path Valley Chimney by the edge to the pre-summit, step-over n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Nosatec
To the left of the Right Valley Crack by an overhanging wall and a zigzag crack to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Nosatec
By the curved NW edge to K. By the right wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Nosatec
In the left part of the valley wall by stepping over from a boulder and by the wall into… Rock Climbing
4+
Nosatec
To the right of the Path over the nest-traverse K to the pre-summit, step-over n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Bílinská věž
To the left in the E wall through the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Nosatec
In the corner of the S wall by a brittle wall along the SE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Nosatec
By opposition between the tower and the massif, higher up by the SE edge n. v. Rock Climbing

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