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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Nosatec
By an indistinct edge in the S wall through a hole to K. By the wall to the pre-summit,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Nosatec
From the gorge between the massif and the tower, by opposition and overhanging wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Bílinská věž
Directly up the center of the S wall via K. Rock Climbing
4-
Bílinská věž
Up the crack in the center of the W wall. Rock Climbing
4+
Bílinská věž
Like the 'Western Crack', briefly up and to the right via the gully into the hole to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Bílinská věž
Up the right part of the S wall via K. Rock Climbing
5+
Bílinská věž
To the left in the S wall, directly up the wall via K. Rock Climbing
4-
Bílinská věž
In the center of the S wall of the pillar to the right through holes to the pillar and n.… Rock Climbing
6
Bílinská věž
To the left of the route 'Kafáč' directly up via the overhang and K. Rock Climbing
3
Bílinská věž
NW edge to the pillar and wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Bílinská věž
To the left in the W wall, the S pre-summit via the crack and to the right via the wall… Rock Climbing
4-
Bílinská věž
Up the SE edge and crack to the pre-summit, step over. Rock Climbing
4+
Bílinská věž
Up the center of the E wall via the horizontal notch (point/tip). Rock Climbing
4+
Bílinská věž
To the right in the W wall, the S pre-summit via K to its top, step over. Rock Climbing
2
Bílinská věž
From the East via the rib in the chimney up. Rock Climbing
4-
Bílinská věž
Directly up the left part of the N wall. Rock Climbing
3
Bílinská věž
Up the crack in the E wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Taubák
Up the center of the N face to the bolt. Then up the wall diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Taubák
Briefly up the right SE crack and right into a slanting crack, then up the recess to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Taubák
By the right crack in the SE face to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Taubák
By the right upper edge of the fallen block to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Taubák
By the left SE crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Taubák
By the narrowing chimney between the tower and the fallen block to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Taubák
By the edge over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Taubák
Up the crack to the bifurcation and right up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Taubák
In the left part of the plateau wall along the edge over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Taubák
To the right in the W face via a crack in a narrow pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Taubák
To the right in the north face via a rib to a ledge to the bolt. Then up the wall along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Taubák
To the left of the chimney via a rounded edge (hourglass) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Taubák
From the W via a narrowing chimney between the tower and an overhanging block to the… Rock Climbing

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