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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Via a system of small chimneys along the S edge of the S tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
In the right part of the S wall directly up the wall (2 K) to a ledge. From the left … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
From the 2nd K directly up the wall over the ledge and two hourglasses to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
S edge to K, up the wall to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Approach from the NE briefly via the chimney between Blíženci and Vyhlídka. To the right… Rock Climbing
4+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Approach as for South Edge, traverse left to a small balcony, diagonally left via a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Via the crack to the balcony and further via another crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Via the crack in the narrow pillar between the East Crack and Left East Chimney routes,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Through the wide chimney between the S and NE towers to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
At the end of the crack (hourglass) traverse left to other hourglasses and up a narrow… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
In the right part of the V-wall of the NE tower via a crack and later a chimney to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Through the center of the right part of the narrow V-wall (to the right of the East… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
In the left part of the N wall, in the ribs below the ceiling. Over them (K) and left… Rock Climbing
5+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Through the crack 2m right of the E edge to the 1st K, right up over the overhang into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
From the 2nd K of the "Zombie" route, up the wall slightly left into the hole ('clock')… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
From K directly up into the hole. Left into two more holes, via a crack and up the wall… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Left of the N edge of the NE tower along the crack into the hole and right to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
From the large block in the gully between the NW and NE towers into the narrow chimney… Rock Climbing
5
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Left of the Old Route through a narrow chimney to the wedged block. Left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
From the large balcony up the wall and through the notch to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
By the Old Route to the platform and right up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Ariane
Through the left part of the East face to K and up the center of the slab wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Ariane
Up the Southwest edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Ariane
Directly up the South face over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Ariane
On the North face, by opposition to the hole and up a small pinnacle to the top. Rock Climbing Danger
5+
Ariane
On the South face, up a crack to its end. Up the wall slightly to the left (hourglass) to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Ariane
From Easter Tower by a jump to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Ariane
Through the center of the West face via cracks to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Ariane
From the block, up the upper edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Ariane
To the left of the "Meteor" route, by opposition, a small pinnacle, and the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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