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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Lorelei
In the right part of the N wall to K, higher up the wall and along a crack to the large… Rock Climbing
5+
Lorelei
From the summit plateau of Konírna, by traversing into the SW wall to K and along the… Rock Climbing
5+
Lorelei
In the left part of the SW wall along the rounded edge to the balcony and right along the… Rock Climbing
4+
Lorelei
Through the chimney between Lorelei and Kyklop, higher up the chimney in the W wall to… Rock Climbing
5
Lorelei
Left of the SW edge, a squeeze over 1 K into a gash, traverse left and briefly upwards … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Lorelei
Start from NW in a wide chimney. Along a crack to the balcony and through the left part… Rock Climbing
4-
Lorelei
Via the South Ridge route onto the S ridge, left into the middle of the SW wall and along… Rock Climbing
5+
Lorelei
In the left part of the upper SW wall of the main summit, via a small pillar onto the… Rock Climbing
4+
Lorelei
In the right part of the upper SW wall of the main summit, along a crack and higher… Rock Climbing
4+
Lorelei
Via the Southwest Wall route to the middle of the SW wall, along a crack to the ledge,… Rock Climbing
4+
Lorelei
Along the crack to the left of the Old Route up to the ledge and along the S edge to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Lorelei
To the large balcony via the Old Route and from there left onto the S edge, higher up a… Rock Climbing
4-
Lorelei
Through the chimney on the right in the SW wall, higher up to the large balcony on the E… Rock Climbing
6-
Pražská věž
Start via the North Route, higher directly over K to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Pražská věž
Through the SE wall into a hole, right and up into an indistinct corner that turns into a… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Pražská věž
Along the wall to the right of the Old Route over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
Přeskok
Pražská věž
Up the chimney to the left of the Ridge Route, traverse right and step over to the W… Rock Climbing
5+
Pražská věž
Right in the N wall along the edge to 1st K. Along the edge and wall under the overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pražská věž
Along the wall to the left of the North Route, through a cross-shaped hole into a… Rock Climbing
5
Pražská věž
Through the middle of the N wall via a fine crack upwards, higher left onto the E edge… Rock Climbing
5
Pražská věž
Through the middle of the N wall via a fine crack under the overhang. Below it, traverse… Rock Climbing
2+
Pražská věž
Through the cracks to the right of the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Konírna
To the right of Koňský handlíř, up a wide crack via K to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Pražská věž
By the old path, higher up left onto the sloping ledge and along the right edge over K to… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Pražská věž
Through the left part of the S wall diagonally right over the overhang, higher left… Rock Climbing
4+
Konírna
Via the South edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Pražská věž
Through the chimney in the SE wall to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Pražská věž
From SW, through the dirt-filled chimney to the W ridge of the tower and along it to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Konírna
To the right of the South chimney, up the wall along the edge via K to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Konírna
Through the chimney at the end of the gorge to the top. Rock Climbing

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