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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Konírna
Via the curved edge diagonally left to K and then through the depression to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Konírna
From the South chimney, left to the ledge and from there diagonally right to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Konírna
In the valley wall to the left of the Yellow Overhangs, up the wall diagonally right to K… Rock Climbing
2+
Konírna
Via the South chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Konírna
Up the center of the South wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Konírna
From the gorge, up the crack to the fore-summit and up the wall to the main summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Konírna
From the valley side, at the beginning of the gorge entrance, to the left in the wall,… Rock Climbing
2+
Konírna
Via the NE chimney from the gorge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Konírna
From the gorge, up the double crack, then the right crack to the fore-summit and up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Konírna
From the wedged block, up the crack and step left into another crack, and then up that to… Rock Climbing
5
Konírna
From the SE, from the valley side into the gorge between Lorelei, almost at its end, via… Rock Climbing
3
Konírna
From the NW, enter the gorge between Lorelei to a wedged block. From there, up the corner… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Koňský handlíř
From the massif, jump to the South summit of the twin towers. Rock Climbing
4-
Koňský handlíř
By opposition between the massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Koňský handlíř
From the massif, jump to the North summit of the twin towers. Rock Climbing
6-
Koňský handlíř
To the left of Bezedná žábovačka, directly to the top via a gentle corner and wall. Rock Climbing
4-
Koňský handlíř
From the massif, traverse over to the main part of the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Koňský handlíř
From the summit of the massif, jump to the North or South summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Koňský handlíř
Up the left valley edge to the ledge and then up the wall via K to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Koňský handlíř
In the right part of the upper wall, through the chimney and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Koňský handlíř
Via the right valley edge and up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Koňský handlíř
In the right part of the valley wall via a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Kobylák
Along the N edge, higher up on the left via a crack n. v. Rock Climbing Danger
3
Koňský handlíř
Through the left valley crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Koňský handlíř
Via a short chimney from the upper side n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Koňský handlíř
Briefly via bridging and left into the wall to K. Up the wall along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Koňský handlíř
Via an opposition/bridging move between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Kobliha
Right in the valley wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Kobliha
From W via a crack over an overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Kobylák
Via the left valley edge n. v. Rock Climbing Danger

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