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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Cukříček
In the center of the NE Face through a diagonally right-running crack, higher up the face… Rock Climbing
5
Cukříček
To the left of the East edge, by a fine crack (hourglass) and the wall along the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Cukříček
On the East face, 2m to the left of the South edge, directly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Cukříček
Through the center of the East face and along the cracks to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Cukříček
By the right upper edge and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Cukříček
In the middle of the NE face from the base of the slanted crack, over the hole to a piton… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Cukříček
Up the wall to the right of the Old Way (below the rappel point) to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Cukříček
In the right part of the NW face through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Cukříček
Left in the S face through a crack and edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Cukříček
Start via the 'Dětský komín' (Children's Chimney) route, higher up diagonally left over a… Rock Climbing
5
Cukříček
Right of the 'Šikmá spára' (Slanted Crack) through fissures along the edge (piton) to the… Rock Climbing
5
Lorelei
Via the 'Večerníček' route to K, higher diagonally left to the edge and along it over 2.… Rock Climbing
4-
Lorelei
From the SE into a wide crack and over two large hourglasses to the pre-summit plateau.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Lorelei
From below the summit head of Cyclops, traverse to a ledge at the NW edge. Over the… Rock Climbing
4+
Lorelei
From the SE through a crack between the SE pre-summit and a small pillar to the pre… Rock Climbing
5
Lorelei
Up the S wall of the SW summit over K to the sub-summit plateau and further by the Old… Rock Climbing
4+
Lorelei
Up the NE wall of the SE pre-summit over two hourglasses to K. Right and through a hollow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Lorelei
Up the crack to the left of the start of the Northeast route, higher up traverse right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lorelei
At the NW edge of the SE pre-summit, up the wall to a crack, higher along the edge to a… Rock Climbing
4-
Lorelei
Through the NE crack to the fore-rock and then by the Old route to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Lorelei
From the NE up the wall and slab to K. Along the edge to the sub-summit plateau, through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Lorelei
From the start of the Northeast route, left up the wall along the edge over 2 K to the… Rock Climbing
3
Lorelei
In the left part of the valley wall through a wide crack to a large ledge and then by the… Rock Climbing
5
Lorelei
Briefly upwards through a wide crack, higher up to the right under the overhang and to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Lorelei
To the right of the "Northeast route" through a crack to the ledge and then by this route… Rock Climbing
6-
Lorelei
Through a narrow pillar to the right of the "Northeast route" over 2 K to the ledge and… Rock Climbing
5
Lorelei
In the S wall to the left of the "Valley crack" over 2K to a large ledge. From there over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Lorelei
Through the crack in the middle of the S wall to a large ledge and then by the Northern… Rock Climbing
3
Lorelei
From the NE through the chimney between the Prague Tower and Lorelei to the balcony. Up… Rock Climbing
5
Lorelei
Right of the North Route, a wide chimney onto the ledge in the wall of Kyklop and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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