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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Taubák
From the plateau side from the SW via a traverse and a short wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Taubák
Up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Blíženci - severozápadní vrchol
Through the chimney between the NW and NE towers up to the narrowest point and higher… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Blíženci - severozápadní vrchol
To the left in the NE face over 3 bolts and the 4th added ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Blíženci - severozápadní vrchol
Up the N edge of the NW tower for several meters, right into a crack in the NW face and… Rock Climbing
5+
Blíženci - severozápadní vrchol
From the crack bifurcation, instead of going to the bolt, follow the crack right to the W… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Blíženci - severozápadní vrchol
From the bolt of the Northwest route, left upwards above the overhang and along the edge… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Blíženci - severozápadní vrchol
Up the center of the NE face of the NW tower over 3 bolts below the overhang. Over it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Blíženci - severozápadní vrchol
Along the W edge of the NW tower over 2 bolts and via the Northwest route to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Blíženci - severozápadní vrchol
2m to the right of the Northwest route up the wall over 2 bolts to a small pillar and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Blíženci - severozápadní vrchol
From the 2nd bolt of the route "Black Jack on white road" up the wall directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Blíženci - severozápadní vrchol
Via the Southwest route to the bolt, from there directly over the 2nd bolt and left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Blíženci - severozápadní vrchol
Through the crack in the center of the SE face of the NW tower to its end and up the wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Blíženci - severozápadní vrchol
Along the right edge of the SW face of the NW tower to the bolt. Through the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Blíženci - severozápadní vrchol
Up the center of the SW face of the NW tower to the bolt, about 5m up, traverse left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
To the left of the W chimney from left or right via the chimney to the pillar. Via a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
From W (to the right of the Old Route chimney) via a corner under an overhang. Over it to… Rock Climbing
5+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Via the SW edge of the adjacent pillar to its top. From there to the right via a delicate… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
From the large platform of the NW fore-rock of Vyhlídková Tower, jump to the ledge… Rock Climbing
4+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Approach to the right of Bláznivá cesta (Crazy Route). Briefly up the chimney and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
About 3m to the right of the Old Route through a system of chimneys to the summit of the… Rock Climbing
5+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Approach same as the Myší šramot (Mouse Rustle) route. Overhang to the right to K. Higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
About 4m to the left of the Southwest Edge into a narrow chimney and via it to the summit… Rock Climbing
5+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
3m to the left of the South Groove directly up the wall (K) into the South Groove route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
2m to the right of the South Groove via an overhanging wall (2 K) to the large hourglass.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
From the left to the SW edge of the S tower. Along it to a balcony, higher up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
From the chimney, via the left wall along the grooves to the summit. Overhang or jump to… Rock Climbing
6-
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Approach same as SW Edge, but to the left to 1st and 2nd K. Via a crack and the edge of a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Through the chimney between the Vyhlídka and S towers to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Through the center of the S wall over 2 K to a ledge, to the left along the edge to the… Rock Climbing

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