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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Kobylák
From the upper W side, traverse approx. 2 m right and up the middle of the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Danger
4+
Kobliha
Left in the valley wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Kobylák
Up the wall directly to the traverse. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4+
Tondova lavice
In the valley wall via a crack left of the edge to a shelf, up an overhanging wall over 2… Rock Climbing
4+
Tondova lavice
Right of the "Old Route" over K n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Tondova lavice
In the valley wall left of the edge, via the 2nd crack to a shelf. Up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Tondova lavice
Right in the N wall via an overhanging ferruginous (iron-rich) wall (bh) n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Tondova lavice
In the valley wall via a crack left of a prominent corner to a ledge, up an overhanging… Rock Climbing
4+
Tondova lavice
Right in the S wall over hourglasses (rock features) and K n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tondova lavice
In the right part of the S wall between two pinnacles/points to a crack and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Tondova lavice
Through the middle of the upper wall via a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Tondova lavice
Left of the "East Crack", traverse the entire south wall (various routes intersect) up to… Rock Climbing
4-
Tondova lavice
Via a crack in the middle of the E wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Tondova lavice
Via a short NE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Masiv za Tondovou lavicí
Through the middle of the wall via holes (BH) and an overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Masiv za Tondovou lavicí
Via an indistinct edge (bh) and a small pillar/flake n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Tondova lavice
Left in the E wall along a small crack over a prominent overhang and up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Kazi
In the N wall over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Kazi
Up the right crack in the W wall over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kazi
Up the middle of the SW wall over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Kazi
Left of Paroubek's route by a crack diagonally traversing left to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kazi
In the left part of the SW wall by the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Kazi
Right in the SW wall by a crack and to the right to a bolt. Along the edge to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Kazi
Up the left crack in the W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Kazi
Up the overhanging SE wall over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Kazi
In the right part of the SE wall by the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Nad bažinami
Along the left valley edge over a bolt and sl. bh. to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Nad bažinami
Left of Krušnotisk by the wall or a squeeze/chimney to the ring. Up the wall over sl. bh.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Nad bažinami
Left in the valley wall by the crack to the end (loops). Up the wall (hourglass) over a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kazi
Up the overhanging crack to the step to a bolt and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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