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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Paličák
Left in the W wall by wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Buchta
In the right part of the East face along the edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Buchta
Up the middle of the East face via a double crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Buchta
Through a wide indentation in the SW edge (hourglass) below the summit overhang, to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Paličák
Ascent between Jubilejní věž (Jubilee Tower) and Paličák. Up the left crack and higher up… Rock Climbing
6
Paličák
Like "Salsa" to K (piton/bolt), up the wall over the 2nd K (piton/bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Paličák
Left over the overhang to the ledge and left to K (piton/bolt). Further left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9-
Paličák
By the "Goosebumps" route to the Umíněnka (Difficult/Stubborn place) to K (piton/bolt).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Paličák
From the block at Umíněnka (Difficult/Stubborn place) by overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Paličák
Up the center of the wall, with an overhanging crack below, over K (piton/bolt) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Paličák
Like "Salsa" to the ledge and further left to the edge to K (piton/bolt). Along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Umíněnec
In the right part of the NE wall, by crack and chimney to K (piton/bolt). Diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Umíněnec
Up the center of the NE wall by crack to its end, higher by stemming to K (piton/bolt)… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Umíněnec
From the edge of Paličák, jump to a ledge (above the chimney of the route "Striped Voyage… Rock Climbing
5+
Paličák
All the way to the right, up the wall to a crack running to the right. Through this into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Umíněnec
From the Paličák massif, descend, rappel, and traverse left into the Old Route. By that… Rock Climbing
5+
Paličák
Start like "Training..." and left into the crack. Through it over K (piton/bolt) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Umíněnec
In the left part of the NE wall, up the wall to K (piton/bolt) and by chimney to the pre… Rock Climbing
4+
Umíněnec
Overhanging crack to the right of the rib of the Valley Route to the balcony to K. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Umíněnec
Up the center of the SW wall to the斜 rib in the valley wall. By the Valley Route to the… Rock Climbing
5
Umíněnec
Up the center of the valley SW wall into a corner. Over smaller friable overhangs under a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Umíněnec
Start with the Valley Route Variant to the step above the 'hours' (pitons/bolts) and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Umíněnec
To the right of the start of the "Smoke Route", along the edge to the 1st ring. By crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Umíněnec
Up the crack in the right part of the valley SW wall. Traverse left and along the rib to… Rock Climbing
4-
Umíněnec
The route starts from the platform below the S wall. Up the center of the S wall under an… Rock Climbing
4+
Jubilejní kámen
In the upper wall to the right of the chimney up an indistinct edge over an overhang into… Rock Climbing
4-
Umíněnec
Left of the crack, along the edge directly to the balcony. Old route to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Umíněnec
In the left part of the NE wall, a crack leads to the pre-summit plateau. Old route to… Rock Climbing
3
Umíněnec
Up a crack near the SE edge and over steps to the pre-summit plateau. Higher up the E… Rock Climbing
4+
Umíněnec
Up the wall and along the edge with a crack to the pre-summit plateau. Old route to the… Rock Climbing

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