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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Klec bláznů
In the narrow West face, up the crack to K. Further up another crack to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Klec bláznů
Up the chimney between 'Klec bláznů' (Fools' Cage) and 'Labyrint' (Labyrinth) to the… Rock Climbing
5
Klec bláznů
On the left in the wall, up the crack to the adjacent block. From there, left to the… Rock Climbing
3
Klec bláznů
On the left in the East face, up the crack to the notch. Rock Climbing
2+
Klec bláznů
From the East, through the corner between the wall and the large boulder to the platform… Rock Climbing
6
Lesní kámen
In the left part of the adjacent wall over BH to the top. By jumping. Rock Climbing
4+
Lesní kámen
In the right part of the valley wall from the rock block via a crack briefly left,… Rock Climbing
5+
Lesní kámen
From the Forest Crack path, left into a hole, above it K, further left along the edge. Rock Climbing
4+
Lesní kámen
In the left part of the valley wall over a rounded bulge and along the cracks (sokolíky). Rock Climbing
2+
Lesní kámen
Up the chimney to the right of the Old Route. Rock Climbing
5+
Lesní kámen
In the W face via a crack and left up a chimney (sokolík) under the overhang to K,… Rock Climbing
5+
Lesní kámen
Right on the N face along the edge over K. Rock Climbing
4+
Lesní kámen
Up the center of the N face via a crack that changes its character. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Lesní kámen
From a block on the massif, a jump. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž sudetoněmeckých bolševiků
From the center of the SW face right into a narrow crack and up along it. Rock Climbing
4-
Věž sudetoněmeckých bolševiků
Up the center of the wall via a crack. Rock Climbing
4-
Lesní kámen
In the left part of the E face over a rib into a crack and up along it. Rock Climbing
2+
Lesní kámen
Up the NE edge to a small block, higher directly along the edge. Rock Climbing
4-
Lesní kámen
Up the center of the E face. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž sudetoněmeckých bolševiků
From the E corner and overhanging crack. Rock Climbing
4-
Věž sudetoněmeckých bolševiků
Left in the wall via a crack and higher up along the edge (hourglass). Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Věž sudetoněmeckých bolševiků
Right on the SE face over K under the overhang and right. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž sudetoněmeckých bolševiků
Left on the SE face along the edge over K under the overhang, below it left to the ledge.… Rock Climbing
6
Věž sudetoněmeckých bolševiků
Up the left valley edge over a ring into a break. Through it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Věž sudetoněmeckých bolševiků
From the uphill NE side, from the right onto the balcony and left via a crack. Rock Climbing
5
Hlavy blíženců
Up the center of the SW wall of the NW summit over K directly into the "Wall Variant" Rock Climbing
6
Hlavy blíženců
Up the SW wall to K, higher onto the ledge to large hourglasses. Over the overhang into… Rock Climbing
5
Hlavy blíženců
After the drop, up the center of the SW wall to the plateau. Via the Old Path n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Hlavy blíženců
From the SW via the chimney between the towers, higher up via the crack of the Valley… Rock Climbing
5+
Hlavy blíženců
From the block at the W edge directly up the edge (K, hourglasses) n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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