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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Hlavy blíženců
Left of the start of the "Methodical Route" to the 1st K, up the wall to the 2nd K and… Rock Climbing
4+
Hlavy blíženců
From the massive block SW of the NW tower, drop into the SW wall. Traverse diagonally… Rock Climbing
5+
Hlavy blíženců
Along the upper E edge up the wall over K directly n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Hlavy blíženců
Up the NE wall to the 1st K. Up the wall via the "Old Path" traverse to the 2nd K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Hlavy blíženců
In the SE wall obliquely left under the overhang, over it to the S edge and up the crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Hlavy blíženců
Up the center of the NE wall to K, from there left, higher right (hourglasses), right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hlavy blíženců
Overhanging crack along the E edge to the plateau and via the Old Path n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Hlavy blíženců
Up the S edge directly to the plateau and via the Old Path n. v. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hlavy blíženců
Left of the right valley edge via an overhang to the 1st BH, up the wall (hourglasses,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Hlavy blíženců
Via the Old Path to the end of the crack, right behind the edge onto a sloping ledge and… Rock Climbing
3
Masiv u Čertovy kovadliny
To the right in the valley S wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Masiv u Čertovy kovadliny
Overhanging crack (loops) in the E wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Hlavy blíženců
Up the crack in the left part of the NW wall to its end. Traverse left into the corner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Masiv u Čertovy kovadliny
To the left in the valley wall over boulders into the corner and up the wall from the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Masiv u Čertovy kovadliny
Start via the inner chimney between the massif and the devil's anvil. Up the wall and… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6-
Čertova kovadlina
Along the S edge to the K, up onto the ledge and over the rounded belly on the edge to… Rock Climbing
6-
Čertova kovadlina
Up the summit wall to the right of the crack directly to the K. From the K directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Čertova kovadlina
Up the wall to the left into the Northeast Crack to the K. Up the wall to the fissure,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Čertova kovadlina
Through the center of the NE wall via the crack over the overhangs to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Čertova kovadlina
In the left part of the summit side by stemming/mantle and up the wall to the ledge to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Čertova kovadlina
To the left in the summit wall over the K into the small chimney/gully and through it… Rock Climbing
5+
Čertova kovadlina
In the right part of the NW wall via a small crack and up the wall directly over 2 K to… Rock Climbing
5
Čertova kovadlina
Through the center of the NW wall to the left (K) to the crack and up the overhanging… Rock Climbing
5
Čertova kovadlina
Through the notch/recess to the left of the W edge onto the balcony. To the left behind… Rock Climbing
6
Čertova kovadlina
Start via the "West Edge" onto the balcony. From the corner, traverse right to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Čertova kovadlina
Through the crack in the left part of the valley SW wall diagonally left onto the balcony… Rock Climbing
6
Čertova kovadlina
In the left part of the SW wall via the overhanging friable wall onto the balcony.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Čertova kovadlina
Through the crack in the center of the valley SW wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Čertova kovadlina
About 3m along the "West Corner" route and then right into the center of the widening… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Čertova kovadlina
From the plateau in the corner, traverse right above the overhang behind the edge to the… Rock Climbing

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