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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Kladívko
Through the center of the upper wall over K further up. Rock Climbing
4+
Fata morgana
Via the slab in the West wall (ring) to the ledge under the overhang (to the left below… Rock Climbing
2
Fata morgana
From the uphill side along the steps to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Fata morgana
In the left part of the South wall, a crack to a prominent ledge (ring) and then up the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Fata morgana
To the right of the route "Stolen Cap", directly up the wall over the 1st ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Maštal
Up the left edge of the inclined pillar to its summit and directly to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Maštal
Up the right edge of the inclined pillar to its summit and directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Maštal
Via a crack to the right of the inclined wall to its end and from the left to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Maštal
Right on the valley wall over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Maštal
Right on the valley wall via a crack to a ledge and over the bulge to another ledge. Up… Rock Climbing
5+
Maštal
Through the center of the valley wall over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Maštal
Left on the valley wall over the overhang to the bolt and directly to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Maštal
Up the large corner in the center of the fractured wall to its end and then freely to the… Rock Climbing
2
Maštal
Via the notch all the way to the right to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Pohraniční roh
Along the edge over 2 bolts, higher up directly over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Pohraniční roh
Left of the NW edge via a fissure to the bolt and right up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Pohraniční roh
About 3m right of the W edge into a hole, left via a gully over another hole to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pohraniční roh
Through the center of the N wall over 2 rings directly into the notch and from the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pohraniční roh
In the left part of the N wall via a small crack over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Pohraniční roh
Via a crack into a prominent corner and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Pohraniční roh
Start on the right terrace. Up the left crack to the wedged block. Through the center of… Rock Climbing
2+
Pohraniční roh
Start on the right terrace. Up the right chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Pohraniční roh
In the S wall over the overhang and directly up small cracks to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Pohraniční roh
Start on the right terrace. Up the left crack to the wedged block. Left over the steps to… Rock Climbing
5+
Pohraniční roh
Right on the slope in the S wall near the cave, via a crack to the 1st bolt. Up a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Lupen
Up the chimney in the center of the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Lupen
In the right part of the massif along the wall near the edge to the platform and along… Rock Climbing
3
Lupen
In the right part of the massif, via a short arête and wall to the platform of the… Rock Climbing
4+
Lupen
In the central part of the massif, via a crack to the platform and over the overhang … Rock Climbing
5+
Lupen
Center of the valley wall (bolt hanger), left along the wall (ring) and directly up. Rock Climbing

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