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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Čertova kovadlina
Up the NW wall of the massif and higher via a traverse/overhang into the right part of… Rock Climbing
6
Čertova kovadlina
To the right of the "Valley Crack" over the overhang to the 1st K. Up the wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Čertova kovadlina
Via the right part of the SW wall to the ledge to the K (anchor/piton). Through the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Čertova kovadlina
Through the chimney to the plateau and by the Old Route to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Čertova kovadlina
Through the crack in the SE wall, higher up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Čertova kovadlina
By stemming/mantle diagonally left to the small chimney/gully and onto the ledge to the K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Pruhovaný masiv
Along the crack in the center of the NW wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Pruhovaný masiv
In the right part of the NW wall (to the right of the crack) directly via the overhanging… Rock Climbing
4-
Pruhovaný masiv
In the left part of the massif, along the slab over two holes (K), the laid-back wall… Rock Climbing
5
Pruhovaný masiv
In the right part of the W face, an overflow from a boulder to the edge (K) and along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Pruhovaný masiv
To the left over the chimney of "Paths of the Deceased" from the boulder along the blunt… Rock Climbing
3
Pruhovaný masiv
To the left into the "Beginner's Route" via a crack-chimney further up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čertova kovadlina
From the ring of the "Wandering Stars" route, up the wall, through a crack and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Čertova kovadlina
From the massif, traverse/overhang to the plateau on the E edge and up the corner to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Pruhovaný masiv
In the right part of the S wall, in the left part through the recess upwards. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pruhovaný masiv
In the S face, through the center of the slab (K) over two white bands to a platform and… Rock Climbing
2
Pruhovaný masiv
In the S face, the left corner in the recess. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4-
Kovárna
To the left in the W face, a small chimney to a ledge and an overhang further up. Rock Climbing
2
Pruhovaný masiv
Through the chimney in the center of the wall further up. Rock Climbing
5
Kovárna
Through the center of the W face along a crack further up. Rock Climbing
5+
Kovárna
To the left in the SW face over 2 K further up. Rock Climbing
6-
Kladívko
To the left in the upper wall, a small crack and a small chimney further up. Rock Climbing
6
Kovárna
Through the center of the SW face into a hole and from there left to K. Through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kovárna
From the center of the SW face, an oblique crack into a closed window and from there to… Rock Climbing
4+
Kovárna
To the right in the W face along a crack further up. Rock Climbing
5+
Kovárna
Along the wall over K further up. Rock Climbing
4-
Kovárna
Along the right crack in the SW face and higher up a small chimney, further up. Rock Climbing
3
Kovárna
To the right in the SW face, along a crack and higher up a chimney, further up. Rock Climbing
?
Kladívko
In the left part of the N face, an overhanging crack (loop) and along the wall further up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kladívko
Along the wall to the left of the right upper edge onto a small balcony and along the… Rock Climbing

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